95 Jetta GL timing belt woes

How did you know the cambelt had slipped? My ancient GTI slipped it's cam belt whilst pulling away and wrecked the head, snapped two exhaust valves, wedging one sideways in the exhaust port, the other exhaust valves were banana shaped. The head was found to be cracked in three places also, though it was probably unrelated. Luckiliy the pistons escaped harm, just a tiny nick which was smooth out. To go 99,000 miles without changing a cambelt is crazy - sounds like a replacement head (cylinder head) is what you need :-( ...if it is the cambelt.

--Steve

I have done one or two timing belts 94-96 VW 2.0 engines and don't remember any damage done to them. Of course the timing belt HAS TO BE INSTALLED CORRECTLY for the engine to have compression. Have you had this VW since new? What is or was the warranty on your vehicle and I guess that depends on your location also. :-)

I would get a 2nd opinion on the work just performed!

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

The 2.0L engine is a non-interference engine.

I would take your car to another mechanic, as this one doesn't know what he is doing.

i had a similar incident with my a3 jetta. i was actually driving it (approx. 20 mph) while the belt snapped. i was told by my mechanic that this is a non-interference engine, thus it is fine. luckily, he was right.

my $0.02

Peter V. wrote:

The only time the valves can get bent is if the t-belt breaks at hi RPM, say close to redline. You need to find someone who knows how to fix the car. Your present VW guru doesn't know much about 2.0 VW engines

The timing belt on my 96 Jetta GL just broke at highway speed (est.

60-65mph) the other day, is that close enough the redline to cause valve damage?

The garage I took it to also told me it was an interference engine and that it would need a new head or engine replacement. It has a 109,000 miles on it. They told me they checked the compression and it had none. When I asked them how they did that without the cam turning they said they did it by hand. That sounded fishy to me so I pulled my car out of there and now it sits in the drive way.

Does anybody think it's worth replacing the belt/tensioner to see if it will run or could it really be dead?

NO! Are they idiots, doing a compression check with a broken t-belt. Must of never read "Engine theory 101" on 4 cycle engines. I bet they have problems doing oil changes too???

I am not so sure that statement is totally correct. Even an engine that has a broken timing belt would have some resistence somewhere as the air already in the cylinders would resist compression but I guess that there is a chance that each cylinder might have a valve set to open so no compression. They could test it by removing the valve cover, setting piston to TDC, making sure cam lobes are pointed to closed and pressurizing cylinder. Not what they mentioned trying. Woodchuck is a professional and I am an amatuer so I defer to his judgement.

Satisfy>NO! Are they idiots, doing a compression check with a broken t-belt. Must of

Jim B.

1) The '95 ABA motor isn't an interference type. At least there have been numerous reports here of no damage when the belt goes. 2) If you're the original owner, or a family member of the original owner, on a '95 the belt replacement and any engine repairs are under the 10 year/100kmile power train warranty. 3) No compression? On any cylinder? That sounds fishy. 4) Compressing the air in the cylinder because the valves are closed on that cylinder isn't going to hurt anything. It's what the cylinder does in normal operation PLUS there's always little explosions happening in there. That's how it runs! 5) The compression can be checked "by hand", but they have to turn the cam shaft to do it. It turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank, and unless they change the position to the correct spot when checking each cylinder, they'll get NO compression. I suspect they messed that up. Have 'em pull the the valve cover, intake has to come off too, and set the cam by the lobes on the cam if they're too thick to figure it out otherwise. 'Course, if they're that thick, maybe you don't want 'em messing with your car?

Hopefully this gives you some questions to ask 'em. I'm not there, so I don't know what else might be going on. At the very least I'd ask how they KNEW that the cam was in the correct position. If there was no compression on any cylinder, I'd be very suspicious.

Mine let go several years ago at 59,998 miles. Did it while I was starting the engine, so no redline operation, but the belt and tensioner were replaced under warranty, with no other damage.

Mark '95 Jetta GLS

Sorry, It's 2.0L (ABA)

It was 5th gear - 65 mph

Should I try to replace the belt or is it done for?

Replace the belt and see!!

There is a small chance you might have damage. However the 2.0L ABA is not considered an interference engine. I would buy the timing belt, tensioner, install it. Check top dead center on the flywheel notch by using the hole on top of the tranny. That's the one with the plastic cap. You have to take off the plastic cap. I would then move the camshaft to top dead center and align up the notches.

Once the timing belt is on, I would hand crank it and see if it will turn without hitting. Then check compression.

Whatever you do, don't take it back to those imbeciles who do not know what they are doing.

Like I said, do the belt, tensioner, hit the key and go buy a case of beer. At 65 in 5th nothing else is broken. I accept paypal.

Agree. Sounds like you read the manual (cambelt). :)

I am just finishing up changing a cambelt on an 86 Golf Diesel which I recently bought for the GF so I can now sell her 86 Honda HB. One of my new neighbors used to own a VW garage in NJ and he helped with the belt install. I did the rest.

The upper AC bracket water pump nuts are a PITA and I had to use his modified brake wrench tool to get to the upper right bolt.

I also changed the water pump, v-belts, thermostat, tensioner.

BTW, the flywheel is out of whack and top dead center is off on it. We had to mark the flywheel where it was real TDC and we also marked the pan by the crank gear. My neighbor couldn't believe that this was happening. We also had to move it backward a bit so when the belt finally went on it went back to our TDC. Moved the engine by hand and re-set the pump to see where it aligned. Back to our TDC.

The cambelt was starting to show cracks in the thin part. It made the usual railroad track marks on the back. There were also two lines on the back of the belt.

Peter, you live anywhere close to Jessup MD?

Nope. I live in Eastern PA out in the country. Nearest big city is Allentown.