So my mechanic towed it on Saturday, and today it starts right up for him!!!!! This is soooo frustrating! Engine Speed Sensor is the Hall Sensor, correct, or no?? That he tested the other day. Would the exhaust blowing a whole in the "middle" of the exhaust system be symptomatic or a sign of a clogged exhaust system? Plus isn't it when it runs too rich that it misfires, or both?
No the Hall Sensor inside of the distributor is the Camshaft Position Sensor. It can be bad or unplugged and the engine should still run. The Crank Position Sensor (AKA Engine Speed Sensor) should be bolted to the block down lownear the flywheel/driveplate AFAIK. If it goes out you lose spark and possibly will not even throw a code. At least it did not throw a code on a '97 VR6 engine and my parts guy says the VR6 ESS don't fail often. He did say the 2.0 engine ESS do fail frequently.
It sounds like this is not a VW mechanic. :-(
Let him drive it for a week or so! If it conks out then he might want to change the ESS for safety sake. ;-)
Why did the exhaust blow a hole in the middle? Rust? Does it run better with that hole? ;-)
AFAIK Misfires could happen with a lean or rich condition, but more often with a lean condition.
=ok
There are some sensors here that have not been replaced yet. My 1990 Golf had a similar sounding problem to yours and it turned out to an O2 sensor. That is not saying anything though about your car.
The way that I fixed it though was with a bentley manual. They list a myriad of electrical tests that can be carried out. Basically at this point your mechanic needs to stop replacing things and start methodically going through and testing every single sensor, and every single connection at the ECU. It takes some time and lots of patience but in the end it will prove successful. I fell into this trap of replacing parts and it is not fun, it sounds like a lot of money is being spent.
I would recommend getting a Bentley manual either on CD-ROM or in print. If you go on amazon you can get it for 55 dollars I think. It has full schematics of the electrical system as well as lots of info that is left out of your ordinary Haynes or Chilton manual. Its well worth the money and will more than likely give you insight into what the problem is.
In my opinion I think that the oxygen sensor (or its associated wiring) sounds like it is acting up. The oxygen sensor tells the ECU what condition it is running in lean, rich or bang on. This is only an assumption though.
Good luck with your car!
Peter
My mechanic was not a VW mechanic and he admitted he was completely stumped. I did take it to a new foreign vehicle mechanic (the vw dealer says they don't see a problem) and he suggested the fuel pump, (he did ask about the O2 sensor too) even though my other mechanic, after testing the pump, insisted this wouldn't be the problem. But since it is basically the first part I've paid for other than the coil (long story there) I decided to bite...$572.73 later, the car died the next day. I called the mechanic immediately (my other mechanic is going to say "I told you so") and the new guy said there was a ground wire in the trunk that needed to be secured...can I bring it right in? So of course I did. This all happened on Saturday so I don't know if that will make a difference. If this doesn't have any effect, then I will have to go back to my old guy and ask him to do the tests. When my cc was replaced, they checked out the exhaust since the cc was broken and had turned. Also on that day that the car backfired, everytime I tried to restart it, it sounded like it blew a hole in the exhaust. Now that it funs "fine" again, there's no noise! This whole thing is sooooo frustrating! Thanks everyone for all your help.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
OKAY EVERYONE...MY PROBLEM INCREASES SIGNIFICANTLY WHEN THE AIR CONDITIONER BUTTON IS PUSHED IN...does anyone have any info on the relationship between the AC being on and how the engine should respond accordingly so there is not a loss of power? Andrea
andrea wrote:
the clutch/pulley on the a/c compressor engages and now the engine has to power or turn the compressor too. the little power that you had from the engine is now being robbed by the a/c compressor...........turn it off.....turn it off! ;-)
I did see a 2000 Jetta 2.0 engine that had the wrong spark plugs in it. It still ran well until the side electrode on one of the plugs disappeared inside of the engine. It is better now.
Just a question: how is the outdoor temperature when you experience these problems? I had a few similiar experiences with my Golf IV on very cold days.
It does this all the time, hot, cold, it doesn't matter. I do now keep the AC off but it does not cure the problem. It just doesn't increase it...however, the car is bad enough with it off to still be greatly concerned, and not be able to really go anywhere!!!!! S, One of Many Daves, what you're basically saying is that the AC is basically not a cause of the problem, but more a symptom...I was wondering if there was some type of "electrical" type connection that was causing the relationship??
Andrea
=D8yv> > OKAY EVERYONE...MY PROBLEM INCREASES SIGNIFICANTLY WHEN THE AIR
I am saying trying to run the a/c ADDS to the loss of power. Kinda like trying to drive your car uphill all of the time! ;-)
Hmmm I had a thought that your camshaft timing might be off a notch, but it should not make the engine stall. :-( I suggest you take it to a VW expert like Lost In Space or maybe he knows some techs in your area.
Dave,
Who is "Lost In Space?"
Andrea
dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
Lost In Space (AKA Woodchuck) is one of this newsgroup's knowledgeable VW techs. He sometimes swoops into posts like a Super-Hero and gives answers.
Maybe that will get him involved in this. ;-)
There used to be Pencilneck, another VW tech, but I have not seen any posts from him in quite a while.
I do recommend that you find a VW specialist and let them have your car for a week or so.
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