Oh yes. I drove 1,700 miles a month, and it was 14 months ago before I got the current job, about that much. It started burning 1 qtr every 1000 miles or so before the last change.
But strangly, after flushing the engine with engine flush detergent and changed the oil last weekend. It no longer burns oil. I was hoping it burns in 500miles the same amount of oil volumn as the added oil thickening fluid. But it's not doing it. It's still 3mm above the max mark after 500 miles, unchanged. If this persists, it's certainly a good thing. Anyway, I'll take the advice from here and change to 20W-50 this weekend.
cheers to everyone. Ben
25000 MILES??? You thought it got burned AWAY??? Like that's a good thing? The dipstick was CLEAN???Keep an eye out for a 'WTB: Engine' post.
Now drain it and put the proper viscocity oil in, I bet the flicker comes
> back, If you drove the car for that long with really badly blocked oil
> passages chances are the damage has been done.
>
>
>
> > Actually, it's the tips from all the response in this thread made me
> > understand that I've got to change the oil at lease twice a year at > season's
> > change. I changed my oil the last time 25,000 miles ago. This was because
> I
> > thought it got burned anyway and the deep-stick is pretty clean. > >
> > This time at change, I first poured in a can of engine flush detergent and
> > run the engine for 10 minutes to let it flush all the part first before
> > releasing the oil-pan plug. It's really dirty. much dirtier than I can see
> > from the deep-stick.
> >
> > thanks a lot,
> > Ben
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > Ha, mechanic in a can. All you did was slow down the inevitable, a > > rebuild.
> > > The oil light flickers for a reason, lack of oil pressure be it oil > > pump,oil
> > > galley blockage, main bearings or in my case disconnected IAC valve. You
> > > have to find the problem as thick oil makes turning over a little more
> > > difficult and if you are in a cold climate in the winter will make for > > hard
> > > starting.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > The light is off, but the real problem is still there. The engine
> > is
> > > > likely just tired. However you are not doing any additional damage > and
> > > can
> > > > put off the eventual need for a real repair, so it is not really a bad
> > > > choice.
> > > >
> > > > BTW, I would worry a little about using two cans of the stuff. > You
> > > > could clog up some passageways and reduce oil flow to other parts of > the
> > > > engine and damage them.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Joseph E. Meehan
> > > >
> > > > 26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I walked into PepBoy last night and found an engine oil thickering > > > fluid -
> > > > > StopSmoke. I poured twice as much as described in the instruction, > > > today,
> > > > > the light no longer goes on. By next change, I'll pour in 20w-50. > > > > >
> > > > > thanks for all the feedbacks,
> > > > > Ben
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > "Dave McLaren" wrote
in
> > > message
> > > > > news: snipped-for-privacy@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > > > I have great results with Syntec 5w50. Regular 20w50 could cure > > your
> > > > > > problem too. Mine was doing the exact same thing. You'll burn a
> > > little
> > > > > > less oil with the 50 than with the 40 or 30.
> > > > > > -Dave
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > I'm using 10-30W, or 10-40W. Since oil keeps getting burned at > > 1qtr
> > > > per
> > > > > > 1000
> > > > > > > miles, I hesitate to use the more expensive synthetic. Is single
> > > > weight
> > > > > > > generally better than multi-grade and why?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The Bentley doesn't contain detailed procedures in removing and
> > > > > > reinstalling
> > > > > > > the oil pump. Do you happen to know a site with such info? Since
> > > it'll
> > > > > be
> > > > > > a
> > > > > > > thirty job, I don't want to open it and then notice I need more
> > > parts.
> > > > > > I've
> > > > > > > already got a new oil pan seal.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > thanks a lot for the response.
> > > > > > > Ben
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The new bigger pump I got came with the pickup so unless yours
> > has
> > > > > been
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > > a
> > > > > > > > while I doubt the sceen is clogged. What weight oil are you > > using?
> > > > You
> > > > > > may
> > > > > > > > need to switch to a single weight like 30w. Maybe synthetic as
> > > dino
> > > > > > thinns
> > > > > > > > out as it getts hot.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Joe R
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > 91Jetta GL, Wolfsburg Edition, 251,000 miles.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > in a previous thread, I got recommendations to replace the > oil
> > > > pump.
> > > > > > > Mine
> > > > > > > > is
> > > > > > > > > already the 36mm gear.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > My question is, could it be that the pickup got clogged and
> > not
> > > > > > letting
> > > > > > > > > enough oil to be sucked in at idle speed? Then I just need > to
> > > > clean
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > > > > pickup. I noticed as long as I keep the rpm at over 1000, > the
> > > > light
> > > > > no
> > > > > > > > > longer blicks.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > What is in the pickup? is it a kind of filter as well? > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > thanks,
> > > > > > > > > Ben
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 19:21:22 GMT Bob:
> > > > > > > > > Replacing the oil pump is not all that hard. I'd recommend > it,
> > > and
> > > > I
> > > > > > > > > would recommend using a 36 MM gear pump, as used on the 2.0L
> > > > engine.
> > > > > > > > > You will need the longer bolt for the pump that goes with > the
> > > 2.0,
> > > > > but
> > > > > > > > > it is a direct swap otherwise. If your mech does it, expect
> > > > > > > > > $175-$250. I did mine at 150K for the same reason and smooth
> > > > sailing
> > > > > > > > > since (193K).
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 19:21:22 GMT, Paul
> > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >"Benjamin Zhou" wrote in
> > > > > > > > > >news:zoSOa.582$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >> Oh, sorry, I missed one '0'. it's 250,000 miles. > > > > > > > > > >>
> > > > > > > > > >Or if you don't want to replace the oil pump or engine > (yet)
> > > try
> > > > a
> > > > > > > > heavier
> > > > > > > > > >oil, if you have been using a lighter one. I have to use > > 20w50
> > > > in
> > > > > > > order
> > > > > > > > to
> > > > > > > > > >keep this from happening, but otherwise the engine runs > fine.
> > > > Was
> > > > > > told
> > > > > > > > by
> > > > > > > > > >a parts guy that as the bearings wear, you need to use > > thicker
> > > > oil.
> > > > > > At
> > > > > > > > > >some point, of course, they will need to be replaced, but > > maybe
> > > > you
> > > > > > > don't
> > > > > > > > > >want to rebuild the engine.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>