Another Oil Buzzer Thread: 95 Cabrio

I've just had some maintenance done for my 95 Cabrio. The car's been solid and very dependable-- especially considering its age. I had the a/c recharged, and it's back to being overwhelmingly effective. Anyhow, I had an minor oil leak, and my Dad's mechanic--as I understand it--"cleaned the engine" and identified an oil filter adaptor (I'd never even heard that) and a valve. I got the car back for a couple days since the parts had to be ordered. I got that oil buzzer shortly into the first day, but it was so quick and unfamiliar I couldn't figure out what it was. The following day, and 100 miles later, I got it again and caught the blinking oil light. I added oil.

Back to the shop Friday for work on the leaks (and new tires, incidentally). Then, again, on the road home, the buzz and blink returned. And stayed around. Nearly perpetually... also the buzz isn't necessarily accompanied by the blinking light (in fact, it's been frequently just sounding and the light's not blinking at all... like

5-10 beeps and never a flicker of the oil idiot light). Anyhow, I checked the oil, and the level was fine-- and the leaks do seem to have been fixed. I'm heading back to the shop tomorrow, and just kind of want to have some grasp of what I suspect might be the case... which brings me to my questions:

Forgive my lack of mechanical knowledge, but a genuine lack of oil pressure would lead to the engine running hotter, right? That's not the case in the least. In fact, it's "perfectly normal" even in 90 degree N.C. interstate heat at 75 mph with the a/c on.

I want to verify the oil weight that went in car. If it's right (which BTW, what would be right?), I'm going to suggest that somehow that sensor has been corrupted (washed?). Would it be conceivable that senor could have been fouled up during the work what was done? Then, of course, it could be the oil pump, but frankly, the car's running fine. My mom's in the hospital right now, so I've been commuting back and forth a good bit this past week, and have had no problems at all. Well, except that damn beeping.

T.I.A.

--S. John

Reply to
S John M-M
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No wonder, it is not soooo old :)

Could you be more specific about "cleaning the engine"? Does it mean - just washed from outside, or used some "oil flush" stuff?

In any case, both things tend to cause more harm than good.

In the first case, there is a possibility, that water found it's way into engine electrical harness, shorting some wires and thus causing false alarms. Also, the engine will rost this way more quckly, as there is no oil film anymore which protected the engine from corrosion :)

In the second case, there is a possibility, that "oil flush" stuff made some (previously stationery) oil dirt to go floating in the engine freely, which in turn can clog some smaller oil channels. The engine usually does not like it very much :) Anyway, if you use a decent oil and change it reguarly - there is usually nothing to clean, as the good oil has the ability to do it itself.

The usual VW engine has two senders to control the oil pressure. There is one for "pressure too low" and another for "pressure too high". I am not sure at the moment, where they are located in your engine (but could look in ~4 hours when I get home), but usually somewhere near oil filter. That "adaptor" thingy could in reality could be an oil cooler, which usually sits between oil filter and engine. Also, the chances are, that your mechanic had disconnected the oil pressure switched and did not properly connected them again. Im they have the same rubber cap's as european versions, then they are a bich to put on. It would be no miracle, if your mechanic did not do it properly, and one connection is loose inside causing false alarms.

As for "valve" - no idea. The only valve I know (bypass valve) is an integral part of oil filter, also one would say "changed the oil filter". Could you mechanic specify it more exactly?

For a short time. And only the oil temp would rise (as seen on MFA). After this your engine would simply block and you would need to call a road assistance.

Yes and Yes. Check if the sensors are properly connected. If you tell me which engine you have and you are not afraid to get your hands dirty - I could tell you where to look. It's not a big job.

Does your engine sound as usual? Do you hear some unusual metallic noises? But don't get too paranoid, people tend to "hear" some noises when worried :)

Reply to
draugaz

"Sprayed cleaner on it, then rinsed it with a water hose." (I just called), LOL. As redneck-backwoods as that might sound, my father (a retired USMC Engineer and again retired GM/Honda Dealer Service Manager) swears by this mechanic, so it'll take a lot for me to... well... "give up" LOL.

I just confirmed they didn't do that.

Trying to find that out now... and you're right!

Yeah this week's been 400+ miles of driving... and the car's fine.

It does. But I know what you mean... and that's compounded my new front tires (WITH TREAD!!!) which also have added a new dimension to the combination of sound the this VW sings. :-)

Thanks for the advice so far...

--S. John

Reply to
S John M-M

Your mechanic put the wrong sensor into your engine. I made the same mistake when the oil pressure sensor located near the top of the oil filter developed a bad leak. I took it to Autozone, and they sold me a similar looking part, but it was a different color plastic (blue I think). I threaded it in, tourqued it correctly, started up the car, then the beeping started and wouldn't stop. I took the car to a NAPA parts store and they explained the color coding system to me and gave me the correct sensor. Put it in the car and the beeping stopped. Go to NAPA and explain your problem, then fire your mechanic and fix this yourself.

Owner of 1995 Jetta III GLS with 140K miles

Reply to
PabloRena ---> AnalProbe

I ended up going to VW parts here at Ft. Bragg yesterday to get what ended up being the wrong part. Anyhow, the result is that instead of beeping intermittently, it's beeping perpetually now. I'd extrapolate from that we managed to replace the failing correct part with a functioning wrong part, LOL. The thing I got yesterday was all metal, no color coding, but it was also VW, not aftermarket. I looked like a spinning top.

Anyhow, he hadn't put the wrong thing in when you wrote this, but he did had by the time I read it-- kismet, eh?

I'm happy you posted this... It's printed and I'm on my way to the local Napa here shortly. If it comes down to it, anyone happen to know if pulling a fuse out would disable it, but more importantly not something else that's essential? I just don't think I can take another

2 hour drive of Ancient German Beeper Torture.

That's essentially the same MK-3 as my 95 Cabrio, right? (Damn if I don't have the most limited knowledge about cars...)

--S. John

Reply to
S John M-M

Water temperature is not a good indicator of engine temperature. Driving at high speed makes the water temperature decrease because you get lots of air flow over the radiator. Doesn't mean the engine isn't getting hot.

After verifing the oil level and weight (assuming both are okay) you should check the oil pressure with an independent pressure tester. If its not good, its probably the oil pump or a clogged oil passage. If its okay, its either the switch or the wiring. You can disconnect the wire and start diagnosing just the wire or just the switch after that.

If you check your owner's manual (or service manual) you'll see that the correct oil weight is 15W50 (Mobil 1 makes this) pretty much year round in most of the continental US. 20W50 is an acceptable alternative if you don't want to shell out the bucks for Mobil 1. Lower weight oils (commonly used by people who don't know any better) will often cause pressure problems.

dan

Reply to
dan

If It was me I would have the mechanic actually mount a gauge on the engine for oil pressure. I have an 84GTI. I think the book says 10 w 40. for oil weight. I started to get an intermittent buzzer and light. I mounted a gauge and and found that the oil pressure was indeed low. I changed the oil to

20w50 the oil pressure came back up. I try to have an actual gauge mounted in all my cars and do watch it often. I also suspect that the mechanic did what I've seen most of the shops around here do, just put in the 10w30 or 5w30 that they buy by the 55gall>
Reply to
asctwiget

In general - yes, it is allways good to verify :)

But as far as oil weight is concerned, it sounds strange.

For example, I use 5w40 in all my cars (Castrol GTX7 synthetic). This includes VW 1.8 '93 and Audi 2.0 5cyl '87. No problems of any kind so far, VW has 180tkm, Audi - 250tkm.

In fact, here in europe you will find very difficult to buy any decent oil with 15w... The next common grade is 10w40 which is usually some "average" semysinthetic oil of "average" quality, and the 15w or 20w oils (if you find them) are usually some mineral shit. The 10w30 "longlife" oils (good for ca 30-40tkm) are completely different case, but I am not sure if you can get them in USA (and they cost an arm and leg).

Btw, you can literally hear the difference. For example, the same engine with Valvoline 10w40 (a so-so quality oil in my opinion) is far more noisy, as with Castrol 5w40. In general, if oil is too "thin", you will immediately "hear" it, as your hydraulic valve "gap adjusters" (or how those things are called?) will start to emmit a loud ticking noise.

Reply to
draugaz

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