Auto to manual conversion question

Greetings,

I have a '93 Passat Wagon that has the unfortunate feature of an automatic transmission.

The automatic is now behaving like a manual in the sense that it won't shift by itself anymore, so rather than drop the $3k Cdn that I've been quoted to replace the tranny, how much would it be and what's involved in putting in a stick shift?

Thanks in advance,

Reply to
Brandon Sommerville
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Has it been diagnosed as needing a rebuild?

Misbehaving automatics are usuallly related to wrong fluid level (leak, and too low fluid) and/or dirty fluid. If I were you, I would get the fluid changed and any filters in the transmission replaced and the pan cleaned. Also clean the valve body. (Have these been done already? If not, try them.) I don't know if the Passat of the vintage had an adaptive transmission like some other 90s VWs but if so, the ECM for the transmission can probably be reset so that it reverts to the factory default shift points.

Reply to
Matt B.

scan the codes for that trans. It sounds like an electronic problem. It might be a broken wire or water/corrosion in the valve body harness or vehicle speed sensor or trans fluid temperature sensor.

There are some owners that have installed a manual trans in place of an automatic for a 16V 2.0 engine. One on the owners claimed his mileage is about 32 mpg with the manual trans. BIG increase from 24 mpg with the automatic.

later, dave (One out of many daves)

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B3 auto

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Not by a dealer.

It may be that you're right, but you're missing the point. While the AT in the Passat is one of the better ATs that I have had the misfortune to drive, I can't stand it. I *want* to replace it with a stick. The car is in excellent mechanical shape, the engine has about

100k miles on it and I love the way it handles combined with the practicality of a wagon. It just came with the wrong transmission!

I did find this website:

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Does anyone have any experience with them or with similar conversions?

Reply to
Brandon Sommerville

Brandon, I posted a similar question regarding converting my automatic in my 88 Golf to a manual. Some told me that it would be easy, some told me that it would be more trouble than it is worth. My automatic was totally clogged with gunk. I, like you, prefer a stickshift. I am in the process of taking my automatic apart and cleaning it piece by piece. I have never done this before. If this doesn't work, I am going to replace it with a stickshift. From what I can tell, it is a fairly easy conversion. Unlike American cars, the pivot point for the clutch fork is attached to the bell housing not the engine. The pedals from a stickshift donor car come out as a single unit. I believe there are three or four bolts or rivets that hold the entire unit in place. The clutch cable attaches to the steering column via some sort of aparatus that is also removable from a donor car. The most complicated thing that must be done is to wire up your back-up lights to the switch on the manual tranny. Some of this has been told to me and some I have discovered in my investigation. All in all, it does not seem to be all that difficult. I will keep you posted. Please do the same for me.

Thanks,

Dave

Reply to
David Craig

"David Craig" wrote

Whoever told you it is more trouble than it is worth is WRONG! or don't know how to service their own car or likes automatics. I did this in 2000 with a Golf 88 and delighted I did. I had NO issues in converting to automatic and was a simple bolt on operation save doing a small harness for the back up lights. No one can tell driving it, it was ever an automatic.

If you want to do this don't waste any more time with the automatic, in my opinion. The 5 speed is a much better way to go since you are having trouble with the automatic.

When I did my conversion, I even threw in an Audi 3A engine (obviously nothing to do with the conversion). I had ZERO trouble with the conversion and I am no genious. 5 years later still enjoying the car. What is funny is I have not really touched the engine/transmission in 5 years other than tune ups - after having it completely apart (engine and head valve springs out etc for new seals -usually something crops up - shows you how these are built - Audi 3A has Digifant 88 head)

If you want to do a fun job wait till your starter goes on the automatic

Harry

Reply to
Harry

I couldn't agree more Harry. You were the person that gave me the advice to make the conversion. I believe that you were correct. I see no real issues making the conversion. In fact, I just won a bid on e-bay for $10.00 for a pedal cage assembly with clutch pedal. I am going to tinker with the automatic once more....for kicks and giggles, but I too prefer the manual. I am gathering my parts for the conversion. Thanks again for your help Harry.

Brandon, if I were you, I would utilize Harry's knowledge base for any questions you may have regarding VWs. He knows what he is talking about.

Dave

Reply to
David Craig

Thanks guys!

Reply to
Brandon Sommerville

"David Craig" wrote

I think the defining question of the conversion is: would I do it again? and was it a memorable tough job?

I will say on a heartbeat I would do it again. If I picked up an automatic A2 say at a great price/gift, I would do it again. As far as "was it a memorable tough job?" - I would say absolutely not. Was there one thing about it that gave me a tough time? . . . no.

It is a simple matter of laying down a list of items needed like transmission, pedal cage assembly, 5-speed shifter, mounts, speedometer cable, clutch assembly - then going to it. Should be able to do it on a weekend.

The 5 speed shifter is a direct fit where the automatic shifter/selector is mounted. The center console is the same. The shifting linkage is a no-brainer to hook up and goes in one way. The bottom of the linkage bracket fastens to the power steering rack with 3 fasteners 13mm.

I took the exhaust out of the way and removed the heat shield temporarily to install the 5 speed shifting mechanism. Nothing, I found, was any critical adjustment. There is a pinch connection on the end of the shift rod that is pretty liberal in adjustment. The linkage snaps right on the tranny from the snap-on points in the shift mechanism.

One thing I did not do that I would have done is put in a new clutch plate - though it has lasted years - I used a used clutch plate to save 50 bucks or so since it looked pretty good - though it worked/works - considering future labor to change a clutch plate a new one should be installed.

While the transmission was out I put in a new seal and there is a small seal that the shifting rod slides through I replaced (if I remember correctly) 2 seals. This is easy with the transmission out and good preemptive judgement and cost a few bucks.

You also need a different starter (one that goes on so easily on the front not rear like the automatic) As I wrote before the CV axles are the same, not looking up the part number, this surprised me and I wound up with two sets thinking the stick was different.

You may want to consider buying a new bushing bracket that the shift mechanism fits in and the shift rod slides through from dealer parts. This is only a 30 dollar item when I checked ounce, I believe, at the dealer. The rubber bushing that the shift rod slides through can wear and a used one will have wear with the rod slightly wobbly. For the tightest shifting a new bushing should be in order BUT the bushing is permanently mounted to a metal bracket (fastened on the power steering rack) You can't just replace the bushing without the metal bracket. When you buy the part, all you get is the bushing permanently mounted in this metal bracket - should only take a few minutes to transfer the shifting pivotal parts over from the old bracket as there are only locknuts holding it in to the old bracket. You don't have to do this unless you want a more 'like new' shifting feel. This will give the tightest feel to the shifting with a new bushing. On the used cars I have observed most of these are worn to a slight oblong shape when I was looking for a used bushing/bracket at the junk yard. I grease mine regularly where it slides in and out to avoid or slow down wear.

Harry

Reply to
Harry

I have a 1996 Jetta GL , The Automatic Tranny Died, so I did the Conversion.

What you bascially need to do is just jump the neutral saftey switch, yank out the old tranny and cv joints, slap in the new maunel tranny. and cv joints and pedal assembly. once you get it all going you will get a Check Engine Light, buy Vagsoft or go to a local shop with a VAG and have them recode your ECU for a automatic... it's that simple.

-Lee

Reply to
Lee

"Lee" wrote

With my A2 Golf, the CV axles are the same. The shifter is a direct fit also. Easy isn't it? !!! What an improvement too, unless the person likes the automatic. The cool thing is that it is not a hack job and everything is a direct fit.

Harry

Reply to
Harry

I have a 2000 VW Golf Gl 2.0 auto, and im intrested in doin a converion to manual. I just wanted to know if the this precedure is the same for a MK4 and how much $ it would cost!

Thanks, Brandon

Reply to
MeeLo

i have a 2000 Golf GL 2.0 auto, and im interesting in doin a manual conversion, i just wanted to know if the precedure is the same for a MK4 and how much it would cost. Thanks, Brandon

Reply to
MeeLo

MK4's have ECT (electronic controlled transmissions) so you would also have to get a manual OBD-II ECU. Try Ebay for that. The conversion can be done but finding more suitable parts for your type vehicle will take more time.

I would do some web searching on this project. I'm sure someone has already done this.

Reply to
Peter Parker

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