car shutting down when comming to a complete stop.

1996 Jetta GLX 6 cyl.

I'm not sure if it's fuel or electrical related. Two days ago my car alarm sounded when I went to lock my car door. I tried to disalarm it by turning the key for the power locks. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it. The alarm stayed off. For some reason the power locks don't work.

Tonight as I was leaving the house the engine turned off when I stopped for a passing car. I restarted and continued on. When I reached the next stop sign the engine shut off again.

I would say the problem was in the fuel system, but my electrical system is also acting strange.

Any guesses as to what the problem might be.

Reply to
vwstruct
Loading thread data ...

I have no idea what the problem is, but it sounds like your Jetta wants to become a hybrid car :)

Michael

-- And some will shake off the sloth of faithlessness, while others simply languish in their sleep. Me, I just fight to stay awake... - Bill & VOL

Reply to
Michael A. Vickers

I haven't seen these symptoms with this, but it's my best guess for alarm and weird electrical accessory things in general. Check the door wiring harnesses, especially the rear ones. Pull the rubber boot back from the B-pillar and look for pinched, kinked, or broken wires. Those being broken will cause all sorts of really weird thing to happen.

Front ones also break, but not as often. If you don't find anything in the back, or if fixing those doesn't fix it, that's the next place I'd check.

Could also be a bad ground. Check the main one up by the battery, and while you're at it make sure corrosion from the battery hasn't eaten the wiring harness that runs RIGHT WHERE the corrosion from the positive terminal is (at least on my '95).

Care to elaborate on "electrical system is also acting strange"? Might provide some more ideas.

Mark '95 Jetta GLS

Reply to
Mark Randol

Normally when you reconnect the battery, the alarm sounds until you turn the key in the door. You are saying that the alarm did not go on when you reconnected the battery, if I understand correctly.

Would another way to describe that symptoms is that the car stalls when you stop?

Reply to
Tom's VR6

Methinks your battery is discharged or dead and that your alternator is not doing its job. Remove your alternator, take it to you local auto parts store and get your alternator tested. If you alternator fails totally or its output is marginal, get $300+/- out of your wallet, and install a new alternator.

I had similar problems, 1995 Jetta GLS 4 cylinder engine. Prior to these problems the battery light flickered intermittently usually after startup, but then went away. These cars exhibit strange symptoms when the battery charging system is marginal. I think that your fuel system is okay.

Reply to
Pierre_Is_Very_Germane

Thank you for your replies.

The battery terminals have corrosion on them, I will clean. I will also check the altenator. My car is a VR6 and like a lot of VW owners I read about, the car drove fine until I hit the 150K mark. Never got the power window slide assembly to behave ($350.00 X 3) - same window. The door lock mechanism broke on both doors. VW design placed a ($120.00) relay under the radiator over-flow bottle. At temp. extremes the over flow worked but flowed onto my relay.

I plan to work on the car this afternoon and I will follow your recommendations.

Thanks

Reply to
vwstruct

I don't know the answer, but it could be a lot of things - maybe even something wrong with your car's computer. Perhaps you should take it to your VW service department and ask them to run a diagnostic check.

Reply to
Papa

I had the exact same situation some weeks ago. Culprit was water inside the central locking pump that shorted out the control board. That shorted out the alarm circuit.

I replaced the pump with a good used one and everithing works again.

Reply to
Eduardo K.

Is this an automatic or manual? If auto, the torque converter might not be unlocking. however given all your eletrical issues, that all should be sorted out first to eliminate the electricals as a source of the problem.

Reply to
Matt B.

Aren't you supposed to do a Throttle Body Adaptation/Alignment whenever you disconnect the battery? This might stop the stalling problem.

formatting link
believe that some vehicles can have the TBA done without the vag-com tool.Read your manual to see. Not sure but it may only require you to turn theign on (engine off) right after you reconnect battery and don't touchanything for a minute or so. Or you may have to press the accelerator downto the floor and hold it there for a period of time. Someone has a website with pictures of faulty solder inside of the door latches/locks that create problems with the alarms, power door locks, power windows, etc. for a Passat
formatting link
will check this out on some Jettas that I know are havingproblems.....soon! lol

Reply to
One out of many daves

these cars are bad about cracking the insulation for the coil packs, might want to ck that.

Reply to
VW FREAK

What're the symptoms of the problem of not having this aligned?

Reply to
wkearney99

bad idle, rough running.

Reply to
Matt B.

I have the same problem with the engine stalling but only after the car has been warmed up to operating temperature and then left to sit for 10 minutes or so. I can get in the car in the AM, start it and drive for hours without shutting it off. I turn it off, leave it for a while but not long enough to let it cool off completely. When I get back in and drive, the engine stalls every time I let off the gas. It starts right up again but I need to blip it to keep it running. The engine does not run rough. After the engine have reached operating temperature again, it settles back into a normal idle. I have replaced the fuel pump and O2 sensor in attempts to fix the problem. The car has 160,000 miles on it. Could it be injector related or a faulty MAF? I live in the Midwest and have noticed that it seems to get worse on warm days.

Reply to
Todd

I have the same problem with the engine stalling but only after the car has been warmed up to operating temperature and then left to sit for 10 minutes or so. I can get in the car in the AM, start it and drive for hours without shutting it off. I turn it off, leave it for a while but not long enough to let it cool off completely. When I get back in and drive, the engine stalls every time I let off the gas. It starts right up again but I need to blip it to keep it running. The engine does not run rough. After the engine have reached operating temperature again, it settles back into a normal idle. I have replaced the fuel pump and O2 sensor in attempts to fix the problem. The car has 160,000 miles on it. Could it be injector related or a faulty MAF? I live in the Midwest and have noticed that it seems to get worse on warm days.

Reply to
Todd

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.