OK, but only if you insist! Actually, after a good nights sleep (good for me anyway)... I decided when I woke up this morning that I'd get an oil pressure gauge on it and just make sure the warning buzzer sometimes going off is actually a false alarm (seems it always is, but this does have a stubborn clicking lifter when cold too). THEN, I will roll it out from my work area (carport, add cold air and no hoist to my ongoing frustrations...) and push up the hill and out back out of the way.
Not for me, or at least not here. My dad has a small shop so maybe at some point down the road? I'm pretty limited in what I can do, as I have disabling spine problems (primary frustration that does shorten my tolerance for much of the b.s. when working on about anything) and I don't like occupying his shop as it is only a single bay. I'd want to take it apart
1st, then get parts... I'm sure it would take at least 2 days. But maybe if at some point I know for sure he won't be working...That was my first thought when I suddenly went from not disengaging to zero grip, but I never lost free play. It's a bit flaky at the firewall end. The housing is loose there so free play is obvious even from under the hood. Next, I wondered if over adjusting it caused a problem at the release bearing end. But again, I never went beyond losing free play at the top of the pedal.
Back when I first got it running (towing up the road with a truck and long chain)... the clutch was smooth and strong. I deliberately worked it hard and it was great. Only thing was the pedal was cocked at an angle and rubbing on the steering column (which reminds me, I gotta finish doing something to keep that bearing from falling out again).
It was a stupid thing to do, but in hindsight I know what I did. I was grinding 1st and reverse, so I shut it off and popped it into reverse. Then I hit the key quickly, wanting to see if clutch was really engaged, or just dragging enough to spin the shaft. Parking brake was on and unfortunately holding much better than the average rabbit. I only hit the key quick, but it make quite a huge thud, really kicked the engine against the mounts. It told me the clutch definitely was engaged. This was the last time it got any grip. The question now is, what's the "weakest link" (that's WWWWWWWWWWEEkest link), because something obviously let go. Is it possible I wiped the splines off the tranny shaft, at the clutch disc or even something further in? Or would one assume (dangerous word, unless assuming the worst) the teeth in the clutch disc would sheer off 1st? It's such a backwards setup, and I've never actually had one apart. Pedal feels fine, and there is only slight change in sound when letting clutch out. Past experiences and general guessing can be fun here, but I don't think I'll know without taking it apart and I'm just not in the position to do that.
Maybe I can just unbolt the tranny and slide it over for a peak. And if it's the disc, just slip it down out, slide another one in and clamp it up. All fixed within the hour! : ) Maybe have to adjust the lu-lu valve just enough to keep it from overriding the trestle gear and making the discabubulator go thunk. Drain and refill the blinker fluid. Rotate the headlights and do a dipstick alignment. OK, all joking aside... I got an old bumper jack around here somewhere... if I can just jack the front bumper up enough to unbolt and change the car...
I'm not desperate to, but it would be nice to be able to. I bought it cheap as a "no spark" car. It's not rusted, but does have some damage to the hood. Grille's broken, but I happen to have a new one that will fit it. Roof is excellent, interior is fair. Fixing a "no spark" car sounded right up my ally. Well, my "no spark" car still didn't run after fixing spark(except by towing it, and clutch worked great for starting it btw) and has since gone into new starter, new radiator, used radiator fan, new coolant flange, new injector seals, and it still will need at least a pair of tires and a rod end, and now it needs a clutch? SWEEEEET. I learned a long time ago that doing a buy/fix/sell for profit is futile so never attempt to do that. But ideally, buy/fix/drive a little/and sell for break even justifies the endeavor. There comes a certain satisfaction in auto resurrection and I always know someone that ends up needing a cheap drivable car. It's always nice when it's a win win deal and we can beat the system we live under. If I can sell it for 600 like it sits, I'm still taking a loss. I don't think it would even sell for that much. I'll put it on CL and see though... maybe I'll get LUCKY! Hey, it's even Friday the 13th today... that should help... knock on my head...