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Front Pass Wheel bearing and Drive shaft on 93 Passat GLX

So, I'm in the process of replacing my pass. wheel bearing and tierod end. The tierod is no problem. I'm trying to get the axel out of the steering knuckle. I have disconnected the tirerod end, strut, and the ball joint from the suspension arm. I removed the 30mm nut off the end as well. I thought at this point the axel should just slide through the bearing. It's not. I tried using an 8 inch gear puller as well. No luck. Am I missing a set screw or something. I don't have a manual. Anyone with this model Passat realizes that a manual doesn't exist...

Additionally, while messing around and looking at the axel, I noticed my inner CV boot was ripped to shreds. I just started hearing a thump every once in a while, so I figure that joint ain't long for this world. I'm planning on replacing the whole shaft now (reman. for $65). Any tips or things that I have to look out for diconnecting/connecting the inner CV joint? I still have to get the axel out of the steering knucle. What a weekend project.

Thanks in advance. Mike.

Reply to
Mike Smith
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I've heard that VW used some kind of adhesive on the driveshaft/hub splines in Golfs and Jettas from that "era" (93-94?). If so, then it's quite possible that they did the same with your Passat. If I recall, you need a special CV joint or axle press. Harbor Freight sells one for $25 (go to harborfreight.com and search for item number 44577). You might also be able to rent or borrow one from Auto Zone.

Bill

Reply to
William Maslin

I recently replace the axles and wheel bearings on a 97 Passat. I had to build a press to remove and replace the wheel bearings. As far as the axle coming out of the spline. I read some place that they used to use loctite on them. An acetylene torch will take care of the locktite.

John

Reply to
John A. Stephens

Thanks for oll the info. The axel did seems to have Loctite on it. I just used a little more 'persuasion' with an 8 inch gear puller and the axel came out. I had a friend press out the bearing. The inner race did get stuck on the hub like you meantioned. I think he used a hand grinder to get it off. One little scuff mark, not bad. The bearing pressed on fine. Just hooked everything back up with new tierod end, got an alignment. All done.

Again. I'd like to thank everyone for the information and help.

Mike

Reply to
Mike Smith

Next time, buy the bearing separator for $10-$20 and you'll be able to get the inner race off more easily. (Or just convince your friend with the press that this is a tool he needs... )

The tool I'm referring to has a sharp edge to fit between the inner race and the hub. You then put it in the press with the outside edge of the hub down, all supported by the bearing separator, then press the hub out from inside the tool. This takes 1 min to line up on the press and 30 seconds or so to do, compared to the several your friend must have spent trying to grind it off w/o destroying the hub.

Harbor freight, JC Whitney and probably lots of other places that sell tools have them, although it's not someth>

Reply to
Bob Hetzel

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