HA HA!! - Rabbit #2 Down!!!

You may remember me from such posts as "Intermittent Spark in 1979 Rabbit", from earlier this week ... Well now my "working" Rabbit - an 83 GTI - is also out of commission. Interestingly, the problem appears to be the same. No spark, as measured by my timing gun on the high voltage wire from coil to the distributor cap. When the car was running a few days ago, I had the timing gun on the same spot and saw nice rapid flashing. Not any more... This car has had this problem for a while. At first I thought it was the ignition switch b/c I could occasionally restart it while jiggling the switch if it cut off while cruising down the road. But I replaced it and found that wasn't the problem. I also tried several ignition control units. No luck. For a while, the car could only be driven short distances before it would cut out. The only way to get it going was by RAPIDLY cutting the ignition switch on and off. I was best able to do this with a hotwire-like setup. Then, magically, when I drove it out to the parking lot to fix my other rabbit, it started working again. It probably gave me 50 trouble-free miles before suddenly dying in my driveway. The usual trouble-free distance had been about 1 mile, so naturally I thought I had accidentally fixed it perhaps by jostling a wire while messing around with the two rabbits (this may be what happened?). Now, even rapid on/offing of the ignition wires doesn't work and the car is sitting at the bottom of my driveway (steep hill). I had taken this to my mechanic a couple of months ago (has worked on these since the early '70s). He temporarily got it going for a while when he worked on the connections (3 wires, I believe) inside the distributor. I'm not exactly sure what he did. I went to check his work when it started to fail, but I couldn't figure out how to remove the part that covers these wires inside of the distributor. I got the little c-clip off (or whatever it's called), but the cover still wouldn't budge. Anyway, I suspect that the problem may be in there somewhere, but I'm not sure. Other possibly important factors: The coil was replaced recently. The starter currently in this 83 rabbit is from my '79 rabbit and has an extra terminal on the solenoid (I believe that's the correct terminology). But the terminal *looks* like it's attached to the other terminal -- i.e. it's like a Y-connector in the world of audio. The GTI only has one wire that attaches to the starter (besides the BIG one) as far as I can see... I measured voltages at the 1 and 15 terminals and got somewhere between

11-12 volts. The voltage at the high voltage terminal was maybe 1 volt less than that. The resistance between 1 and 15 was zero. The resitance between 1 and 4 (high voltage) was 7.6 ohms. Same measurement for 15 and 4. The resistance readings were the same whether the ignition switch was in the on or off position. I did not remove any of the wires from the coil during these tests, except for the high-tension wire. Well ... that's about it. I'm completely stranded. Fortunately I live 50 yards from a BBQ restaurant!!
Reply to
Fred Mann
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Reply to
Jim Behning

I'll certainly give that a shot!! How do I get that cover off? If you don't know what I'm talking about, it's the metal "lid" that you see inside the distributor when you remove the cap. By the way, I ordered the Bentley manual, so I'll be more educated soon! Thanks again for all of your help!!!

terminology).

Reply to
Fred Mann

For the task I am describing there is nothing to take apart on the distributor. The external connection is external. You just remove the wiring harness which is retained with a few clips. I believe there are

3 c>I'll certainly give that a shot!!
Reply to
Jim Behning

Hello again. I tried cleaning the harness and the 3 little connectors in the receptacle. It actually worked ... for a few minutes. I was able to drive out to the parking lot and rescue my other car, which miraculously started (I don't know why). I got the 79 rabbit half way home and was able to push it home the rest of the way due to topography! So both rabbits are in my driveway. Anyway ... when I went back to pick up the GTI, it was failing again. I'm guessing we're close to the problem since I got that temporary positive result. BUT, I did not grease up the connector in case I needed to clean it or inspect it again. Could that have been the problem?

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Reply to
Fred Mann

What did you clean things with? I have not seen contact cleaner do much. Kind of like farting when you need to blow bearings dry aftrer cleaning in stodard solvent. It feels good but it did no good. I used the TarnX because a wack job electronics technician used it once. I did not trust that guy much but the TarnX really worked. It is more than a bit aggressive though. That is why you rinse with water as per the TarnX direction. Then I blow dry with water. If I needed to squeeze stuff together to make a good contact I do. I slather up with grease to prevent future oxidation. I have seen plenty of new cars slathered up with grease or some sort of corrosion inhibitor.

I just rubbed the male connectors with TranX on a Qtip. The female I scrubbbed with TarnX and a toothbrush. I may have wiggled a small screwdriver at things to get where the toothbrush would not rub. That task I must have done 10 years ago but it held for the next 4 years I owned the car. It had sputtered, stuttered and stranded me twice before I cleaned it "properly." Driving down the road at what should be 3,000 rpms and the tach drops to zero even though the engine is still spinning.

Reply to
Jim Behning

Hi Jim. I cleaned in almost exactly the same way. TarnX on the male with Q-tip. Let it sit for 2 mins (like the bottle says). Rinsed out with spray bottle for a while. Dried it with paper towels and then hair dryer. I cleaned the females by running a piece of sandpaper through the openings after removing as much grease as I could with a little awl. TarnX was next, then rinsing. It started up immediately, got me to the parking lot 2.5 miles away, but then would not start an hour later when I went back for it. I barely got it back home. But if grease is nothing more than a protector/sealant, then I don't suppose I can blame the lack of grease for my troubles. At least not yet. Right? Also, I'm still itching to get inside the distributor and check the connections of the 3 wires. Do you know the best technique to remove that lid/shield inside the distributor? I have another GTI parts car. It's an 84 and the harness is a little different, but the inside of the distributor is the same. I practiced removing that lid on the 84 and literally destroyed it. It wouldn't budge (and yes, I removed the c-clip).

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Reply to
Fred Mann

Geez now you all tell me about TarnX! lol good tip thanks!

Fred did you try tightening up the contacts some? I have seen the terminals in the distributor plug come out slightly esp. when you try pushing the plug onto the distributor.

I still think you need a spare used distributor. Got any U-Pull-It yards near you? That distributor might be in some VWs from 1981-1987 so you have a pretty good year range in which to find it. Also should be in some Audis too with the 4 cylinder engines up to maybe

1983;-)

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I do not recommend sanding contacts. Some of the electrical connectors are tinned. You rub off the tin and then they rust. That is worse that a bit of oxidation. Of course grease reduces the oxidation risk. I vote again for tightening contacts as Dave mentioned.

It is rare but Hall sensor modules can go bad. I never had >Geez now you all tell me about TarnX! lol

Reply to
Jim Behning

Ebay has a few distributors if you want one at their prices. ;-) $45

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$50
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Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

read

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recent thread re the shutter/trigger wheel also read page 5-10 of the haynes manuel -- it has a diagram for removal of what they call the trigger weel

Reply to
jfruniontown

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Thanks. I actually just got the Haynes manual so I'll see if that helps. I guess WD40 might be the missing ingredient. I just know I'm gonna break it. I have another (3 total) rabbit, and I broke the distributor housing trying to pry off the trigger wheel.

Reply to
Fred Mann

removal of that clip above the trigger wheel pry that wheel evenly up using two flat screwdrives don't lose the alignment pin

I am not fond of W.ater D.isplacement -40 anymore and use almost anything else except PB Blaster. ;-) I am trying out Marvel Mystery Oil this year and I have a few different brands of rust penetrant and lube. Can't find my favorite anymore......and it was either Dura-Lube or Pro-Lube IIRC. :-(

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

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