Ignition switch? Headlights cutting out.

My headlights (and rear defroster) are cutting out sometimes and it's getting progressively worse. I can keep them on by holding the key in the "start" position (just past the normal operating position), and if I rattle the key sometimes the lights will stay on for a few moments, so I think it's something with the ignition.

Could it possibly be the ignition switch? My worst fear is having to replace the entire ignition and re-key the whole car.

It's a 98 Jetta GLX. How hard is it to change the ignition switch? I'm worried it might be hard to access due to anti-theft considerations.

Reply to
timeOday
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It could be the ignition switch. How big a bundle of keys do you hang on it?

And, have you lubricated it lately? I loosen and flush out the skunge with WD-40, followed with a high-film-strength PTFE-based oil... about

2 X per year. So far, so good. And that is all the vehicles VW or otherwise.

Could also be the relays as both functions go through a relay (not the same one) on your fuse panel. VW relays of that vintage are pretty notoriously crappy.

Try cleaning the ignition switch first. It may take two tries if it is really binding.

DO NOT USE A GRAPHITE BASED LUBRICANT!!!

Graphite is a good conductor. Oops!

Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA

Reply to
pfjw

Thanks. Do you just squirt the oil into the keyhole, or disassemble something first? Where does the oil run out?

Any idea whether it's hard to replace the ignition switch, should that be necessary?

Reply to
timeOday

I wrap a rag around the column and lock and spray away pretty liberally. WD-40 is 100% volatile (eventually... faster in warm weather of course) so it will dry But the point of it is to rinse out the crud in the lock and free the cams that activate the switches. The PTFE oil I use comes in a needle applicator which keeps it well confined. Just wipe down when done, and then the next day.

Plugs in and out, after getting to it. No big deal, really. If you don't mind two keys, there is no reason to do the rest.

Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA

Reply to
pfjw

If this was a vehicle running with DTR I would suspect the handbrake switch. If not please disregard! ;-)

Happy Holidays to all! later, dave (One out of many daves)

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Pardon if I'm being dense, but what's DTR? The handbrake switch is one of the many other electrical problems with this car. Sometimes when I'm driving, the red "brake" light is on in the dash, even though the handbrake is definitely all the way released.

Other electrical problems include nonworking power locks, broken CD changer, 2 of the 4 power windows don't work, the keyfob transmitters don't work, and once or twice it has blown a fuse for the electric accessories. All that with only 75K miles on it. Whoever wired this thing should be shot. Or more fittingly, electrocuted.

Reply to
timeOday

Day Time Running lights which light up the headlights when the ign is ON and the handbrake switch is OFF.

It depends >> If this was a vehicle running with DTR I would suspect the handbrake >> switch.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

OK, should have put it in the title. But as mentioned in my original post, it's a '98 Jetta GLX.

Reply to
timeOday

thanks sometimes that info gets lost as the replies delete it.

you should have DTR (Day Time Runn>> Day Time Running lights which light up the headlights when the ign is ON

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

By cutting out, you don't mean they are blinking at a somewhat regular rate, do you?

Reply to
Tom's VR6

The switch is separate from the lock cylinder. You can replace it without having to change any keys. The switch is cheap, around $40/dealer or $12/online. Shop around.

The simple way is to pull the whole steering column. That'll just barely let you get to the philips head screw that holds the switch onto the back of the lock cylinder. You remove the bolt at the bottom of the column, drill out (or grab with visegrips) a bolt, remove the wires and the whole column comes right out. See my posts elsewhere here, or STFW for more detailed info.

-Bill Kearney

Reply to
Bill Kearney

What do you mean by "the bottom of the column"?

Reply to
Tom's VR6

THINK MAN. There's a steering column, I'm suggesting you remove it. One end is up near you, one would call this the TOP of the column.

Thus I'll leave you to figure out where the BOTTOM is.

There's a universal joint that has a bolt holding it's clamp onto the column. Remove that one.

Reply to
Bill Kearney

Well, it could have been installed backwards. ;>)

Reply to
Papa

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