Mk4 Golf Stalling Problems - Not the MAF???

I started to have stalling issues a few months ago on my MK4 1999.5 Golf. Originally I thought it was the air filter, since I had the same behavior a year before and a clean air filter did the trick. However this time it did not fix the problem.

The car will sometimes stall when idling or when coming to a stop. It seems worse the more humid / hot it is outside.

So I started thinking it was the MAF. Someone suggested disconnecting it to see - and when I do so the car runs crappy (and throws a CEL) but does not stall. So that seemed to me it was the MAF. I hooked up the MAF again and waited for the CEL to shut off. When I did I hit autozone and read the two codes from the car's computer:

P0102 - MAF circuit low voltage P0112 - IAT circuit low voltage

So I figured the MAF code was the tell tale sign to get a new MAF. I went and grabbed one from the dealer and popped it in. But I'm still stalling and it seems even worse than before. The good standby of unplugging the MAF and running rich still stops the stalling problems.

So I guess it's not the MAF (or I got a bad one from the dealer). Does anyone have any ideas before I give up and take it in? Is the P0112 code a hint (what does that mean?).

Thanks for the help!

-Pete

Reply to
LynchMan
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Had the same problem, and although the MAF may be having problems, in my case the actual cause was due to pitted, corroded, eroded contacts on the terminals inside my distributor cap. The car ('95 Jetta GLS III 2.0 liter) ran crappy in the morning, especially after sitting out in the rain. I tried misting the cap with a spray bottle, but the failure only appeared after soaking in a high humidity environment for 8 or more hours.

Try changing the cap and rotor, don't do what I did, don't buy the crap they sell at Advance Auto Parts, some knockoff parts made in England. Get the original Bosch cap and rotor, you'll be glad you did. Oh, and if you are doing the replacement yourself, be sure to make a little reference mark somewhere so when you put the new cap on you won't screw up the timing.

Reply to
Bob F.

Hm... OK - thanks for the info. I think changing the distributor cap is a bit beyond my capabilities ;o) , but how much damage does one of those cost? I probably have to take it in anyway, but just to have an idea if it is that what it should run.

Thanks!

-Pete

Reply to
Lynch Man

Labor, probably $35 to $45/hour, 1 hour minimum, parts another $30. If you buy the parts on line you'll save maybe 40%. The distributor cap is very easy to change though, you might try doing this yourself. The rotor is a little confusing at first, you may need to take it off in pieces, over time it tends to rust-weld itself to the distributor shaft, but this to is not difficult. All you need is a pair of locking pliers (vise-grips). Installation of the rotor is easy, just line up the slots and press it on. Seat it into place gently by tapping with a rubber hammer

Reply to
Bob F.

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