Mystery car

We've been working for a couple of months off and on on a 1987 Jetta GL 1.8 8-valve gas that refuses to run. I inherited in from a guy who told me he drove it for a while and then developed a head gasket leak, so he took the head off and had it surfaced, reinstalled it, and was never able to get the car started again.

I thought it was going to be a simple problem, because the guy had really screwed up the engine timing. The cam gear has a dot on both sides, and he had lined up the outside dot with the front of the valve cover, and then had changed all the plug wires around to try to correct for being 180 degrees out. So, the first order of business was to line everything up right and reinstall the timing belt. The two marks on the harmonic balancer and the intermediate sprocket that drives the distributor are now correctly lined up with one another, and the valves are set to TDC on number 1 with the inside alignment dot (the one on the tooth, not the one on the valley) lined up with the top corner of the valve cover. The distributor is now pointing to the engine block, and the plugs are correctly lined up 1-3-4-2.

Along the way, we discovered that the fuel pump relay was shot and the fuel filter was clogged, so we jumpered around the relay, and replaced the fuel filter. We're now getting a good conical spray of gasoline from all four injectors.

It still wouldn't start, so we tested compression and discovered that the #1 cylinder was down to 50 pounds, and #4 was sitting at 75 pounds. We took the pistons out, found all the top rings stuck and all the rings on #1 an #4 stuck. We cleaned everything up, re-ringed them, cleaned up the badly carboned-up cylinders, and reinstalled the pistons with new con rod bearings. While the top was off the engine, I replaced the badly shot o-rings and shrouds on the injectors and put in new plugs, properly gapped.

At 11 p.m. last Friday night, after a long evening of putting everything back together, we attempted to start the car. We filled it with oil and coolant, hooked up the battery, got in, and twisted the key. Exactly the same result as we had before. It cranks perfectly, starts backfiring as soon as there's enough gas to do so, and absolutely refuses to run.

With all the work we've done on the engine, I'm convinced that's not the problem any more, but that it's gotta be something hanging off the engine. So, what? Hall sender? Computer? I don't know what to try next, although pushing it off a cliff is beginning to look pretty good.

Reply to
PatAL7L
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You are close with the timing . you must use the dot on the inside of the gear on the cam shaft. had a buddy with a 94 golf with the same issue with the timing after 5 minutes of taking the cam belt off and re set the timing it ran good ....good luck

Reply to
tacurong

Seems a bad ignition. Check if the hall sensor is pulsing +12v - 0v

+12v..while cranking. You can also use a timing light to see if you've a spark on each cyl. Did you set the plugs wires in the right order? #1 is on the distrb. side.

SFC

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Reply to
SFC

The early "boxes" for controlling fuel delivery couldn't actually be termed as a computer. They were simple bridge networks. Hall sendng unit either works or doesn't, no inbetween.

Ignition timing, or mechanical timing can both produce backfiring.

Any vehicle that has stood unused for quite some time stands a problem of rust intrusion from the tank. A closed fuel system in particular, meaning the gas is returned to the tank if not all used.

Reply to
Dioclese

I noticed this statement:

The distributor body has a mark on it that shows where the terminal for plug #1 will be when the cap is installed. The rotor should be pointing to that mark. If it is, the ignition timing will be right around TDC, which is close enough for the engine to fire. It isn't critical for the mark on the intermediate to be lined up with the mark on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. It can be bit either way. What determines if the timing is close is the relative position of the rotor and the mark on the distributor body. You could, in fact, have the intermediate shaft in any position - as long at the rotor lines up with the mark on the distributor body your timing will be near TDC.

Todd

Reply to
racertod

and check #1 piston to see if it is at TDC by removing the spark plug. Using a straw move the crank one way and then the other to make sure that the straw is at its highest point.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

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