Myths and fallacies regarding egr and crankcase vent in TDIs that have both

I had removed the intake to replace the clutch on my alternator. Many folks over at the tdi forum go on and on about the clogging of the intake so I looked at mine. I had some crud so I removed it, scraped it, sprayed it with carb cleaner and pressure washed it. It looked pretty clean when done. No performance difference though. I guess it was not all that clogged. I was planning on installing a Mann Provent to reduce all that oil from getting in the intake. If any of you have removed the intake pipe you will see all the oil which may not be all that much but ti does accumulate over time. There are even articles that mention how to clean the intercooler of this oil mess.

My theory is that the oil from the crankcase vent mixes up with the egr gasses and the heat of the turbo to make some nasty coke or soot. Removing the oil from the mix should reduce that build up. I need to purchase a good vent to test my theory. Unfortunately it takes me about 3 years to accumulate 100,000 miles.

One myth proposed is that reving the engine will prevent these deposits. I generally drive for mileage getting 50 mpg regularly. Reving over 3,000 is rather rare and I generally shift at 2,000. I feel this is a myth because an engine is more often than not runnng at relatively steady states at relatively low rpms with relatively low boost. Second thought is that you have more crankcase pressure at higher revs. More pressure might mean more oil slung about that gets into the intake gunking stuff up. My third part of this is fluid dynamics. There are areas of high velocity and low velocity in an intake. You will get some deposits in areas of low velocity no matter how much you rev.

Some propose egr recalibration which apparently has drwawbacks like reduced power and reduced mileage. I believe I read that the computer makes some calibration related to the egr that reduces fuel flow.

Has anyone seen any good studies from a well educated mechanic or other source that might shed light on the oil-egr interaction?

Jim B.

Reply to
jimbehning
Loading thread data ...

My 2 cents: consider not fixing this thing at all. My one experience may be a good data point if it is not a proper study or the opinion of a real mechanic.

My '97 TDI has 171k miles and has had a clogged/bad egr valve since the light came on at 62k. The check engine light came on during a roadtrip, and the nearest dealer wanted $600 to do more than say it's the egr valve.

Since then I have gotten the same fuel economy as before; there is no more black smokey exhaust than there should be (a black cloud appears under full throttle acceleration and when it's cold); oil consumption has slowly increased with advancing old age, but is still about 1/2 quart in 2k miles; the check engine light finally burned out about a year ago. It's now all good and I have no intention of ever looking into the matter further.

and by 'looking into the matter' I mean spend money.

Reply to
Keith Loyd

My 03 tdi does not appear to use any oil between changes. 105,000 miles on the car. I change at 10,000 miles per manual. I need to send in those oil samples someday.

Your story is interesting. I had my chip reprogrammed about 80,000 miles ago. It can be embarrasingly smokey but not as bad as chipped Dodge or Ford.

I guess there are not many tdi pe>My 2 cents: consider not fixing this thing at all. My one experience may be

Jim B.

Reply to
jimbehning

Nice attitude. The purpose of EGR is not to affect your fuel economy or power (although a malfunctioning one could affect both) but rather to reduce emissions. In fact, unlike a catalytic converter it isn't designed to reduce all emissions, just one type, oxides of nitrogen (NOx). While diesels are very clean in terms of hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide emissions they are *WAY* dirtier than gasoline engines in terms of NOx emissions, by a huge margin.

If you want to run a car with poorly functioning emissions control equipment, fine, that's your selfish choice. Personally, I think anyone who feels it neccessary to buy a car should be willing to take on the responsibility (financial and otherwise) of properly maintaining it but apparently you don't feel that responsibility. If you don't want to pay $600 for the dealer to replace the valve, why don't you do it yourself? Please don't advocate other people engage in irresponsible behavior.

As for the light "burning out", thats a pretty incredible statement. The MTBF of an LED is probably around 100k hours. Assuming you were driving at 30 mph, for 110k miles, that'd be less than 4000 hours. Those LEDs should easily last well longer than the life of the car, which without having the benefit of the light might not be all that long anyway.

Reply to
nothanks

Reply to
none2u

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.