Need a sanity check -1.8T sludge - time to give up?

I presume you didn't start using synthetic until the last repair. And I guess the oil lamp is back on? That said I would just pull the oil pan, clean it, and replace the pickup screen. VW & BG recently came out with a new procedure to make the repair. The change mainly is using a BG cleaner to run in the engine for 30minutes which is to clean it all(most?) out. Lastly not sure which model you have, but it maybe covered by VW especially if you have oil change records.

Refresh our memories. What model VW and what year?

Lets see your VW is at least 5 years old and you are the second owner, or the oil changes were not documented well enough for VW to replace engine. If you are the 2nd owner then maybe the first owner did not properly take care of this VW. I really don't see a lot of 1.8t engines so I guess I don't get a chance to see sludge buildup on VW/Audi engines. I have seen it on Jeep engines though, and 1 VR6 engine. UGLY. I just rebuilt a 1997 Audi 1.8t engine and I found no "sludge" inside. And I am pretty sure the previous owner #2 did not use synthetic oil at all but lost oil due to a faulty oil cooler seal. He sold the '97 Audi A4 Quattro to me with 1-2 knocking rods.

Are you sure that you are having MAJOR problems? Hopefully it is just that oil pressure switch. ;-) What did that mechanic do for the $1200? Evidently he possibly just dropped the oil pan and replaced the main and rod bearings? Did he change out the oil pump? Did he tell you to change the oil every month for the first few months? Did he take pictures for you to share with us?

If you are trying to decide on keeping this car or selling it.................I feel that you are tired of this problem and you want O U T! Correct me if I am wrong. :-) FYI I have seen quite a few Passats and Audis with the 1.8t engines being sold here in Chicago. They sell pretty cheap with bad engines ($700-$2200) and finding a "good" USED 1.8t engine is rather expensive at around $2000 when you could possibly buy a new one for around that price if you are lucky.

If you want to keep the vehicle then I vote you install a new engine and possibly change the PROPER Synthetic oil more often. DON'T try to take any shortcuts and do another bandaid..............do it right and hopefully get a long life out of this engine.

AND if you really love it then you could think about bumping up the power of the engine depending on your finances.

Or what are you asking? ;-)

JMHO but either FIX IT RIGHT.........OR........SELL IT!

In my opinion, if you're going to address the problem, address the problem. Not the symptoms. Dave

Thanks very much for your thoughtful reply. My car is the 2001.5 Passat. I didn't have the docs from the original owner to pursue the VW engine replacement. Not knowing any better, I used only dino oil in it until this problem occurred. The mechanic did replace the oil pump the first time around, and I know he is planning on replacing it again under warranty. Not sure that makes sense if its not the oil pump's fault. He did have me change the oil after the first 1000 miles, but on a 5000 mile interval following. He has performed all the changes since, using Amsoil and the larger filter. He has pressure tested the motor and it's not looking good. He mentioned that a new "crate" motor would run about $3600...a major stretching of my finances at this point. Again, however, it's cheaper than replacing the car and having a car payment. I do like the car overall. Yes, it's not the most reliable car, but it has a soul, unlike many from the ultra reliable Japanese makers. Depending on what he tells me after dropping the oil pan, I am leaning towards replacing the engine. It seems like the only sane way to handle it.

did you check with the dealer and see what they said even that you are the

2nd owner?

I have to admit that I haven't pursued VW engine replacement based on what I had read from owners with the same problem. Every case I read about detailed that not having all the records made the issue a non starter. I guess it's at least a try. They can only say no.

You had mentioned a new procedure using BG? Do you have any more details? Is that similar to using the Auto-RX?

Thanks.

New Shortblock Ebay # 8007999851 or 8007090358 at $2500 shipped to you. Should be for your vehicle. Your mechanic's price for the crate engine is not bad at $3600 plus his labor charge and misc items. That engine should include all those expensive gaskets, new oil pump, new timing belt and water pump and these item costs add up quickly too. AND it should be a quick alternative to having your engine rebuilt which will require more downtime. I knew one person with a 2001 GTi (46K miles) that the dealer kept for about

2 months while allowing the owner to produce oil change records for their VR6 engine that had timing chain problems. It would have cost $3300 if they had not produce records! 8^) On my '91 Passat 16V, the engine always had to be full of oil. If it dropped down into the crosshatch area of the dipstick and you drove it on the expressway the oil warning system was likely to go off. When I changed the cylinder head gasket I made sure that the oil passageways/drains were clear. No problems now! I had assumed that the oil was remaining in the upper part of the cylinder head and was not returning to the sump/pan.

When your mechanic corrected the sludge the first time, did he clean up the cylinder head area at the camshafts? Or did he only deal with installing new bearings without removing the engine or all sludge?

BTW $3600 is a years worth of car payments to some! ;-) I think you are leaning towards the best option and with a little luck maybe you will get a good dealer to change the engine under some sort of warranty.

Good luck!

- later, dave (One out of many daves) BTW there are a couple of Passat-specific groups on Yahoo you might want to join!