Oil cap sludge in 99 Beetle

How does the car run, does it seem OK? Is the CEL on constantly? I'm not sure but I think you can manually pull the code by translating a blink code at least I was able to do that on my A3 2.0 liter. In any event, it appears they want to change the same O2 sensor again? At their expense? Eventhough it's inconvenient to deal with incompetents (plural) I would let them have at it if it is no charge. I would also ask to see a printout of the scan from their VAG tool and ask what it means. With the A3 I had a long drawn out CEL issue, I replaced the distributor cap, rotor and plugs, fuel filter and finally took it to the dealer. The dealer replaced the timing belt (no charge) and before I drove the 10 miles home the CEL occurred. I took it back a few months later and they said I needed a new distributor. I thanked them for the diagnosis and told them to remove the one they installed. I purchased a new direct replacement on the web for at least half price. The stuff under your oil cap seems normal for winter operation. I don't know what they do for emissions over there, but here you get them to use an emission sniffer to check for glycol under your oil cap in the valve galley to determine if the moisture is coolant related.

Good luck, Jim

The dealers are hopeless. The first dealer after 4 visits told me that they did replace the O2 sensor. I asked to see the printout, but "didn't have it anymore" so I let it go. The second dealer confirmed my suspicions that they never did change the O2 sensor. When I confronted them about it they tried to play it off like it was only a diagnosis they had given me, not actually done the work, even though they told me they had done the work. The printout from the second dealer was inconclusive. I don't remeber exactly but it was somehting like the number 3 cyl was lean.

Generally the car runs fine. The engine doesn't idle as smooth as it should. (I had a 2000 Jetta in LA 2 years ago) And when it starts in the morning and is left idling to warm up (it's been about -5C lately) there is usually a sooty patch on the ground (snow so it's easy to see). My 96 BWW 318 leaves no such patch when it is warming up.

I want to have as many theories worked out, and then take the car to Germany and have dealer there deal with it. I travel to Germany relatively often but i usually take my 318. My stays are short so I want to give the German dealer as much info as possible.

If possible I will also try to deal with it here.

The light is always on. I have tried driving in various ways to see if it would reset itself but it won't.

???

Joseph

That is OBDI, it doesn't work anymore with OBDII

Wouldn't worry about the coolant leaking. I wish it was around -5C here (closer to -5F) and have all kinds of stuff on the inside of my oil filler cap. Talked with a mechanic from Alaska and he didn't seem to know any better.

determine if the moisture is coolant related.

The thing is in my other 2 cars the underside of the filler cap is nice and clean. Just amber oil. (76 Alfa Romeo, 96 BMW).

Ahhh....1999 VW Beetle 2.0.

We had one in our stable of cars for about 60,000 miles. Honestly...I am VW at heart, mainly aircooled, and it's going to stay that way after my experiances w/ the 99 NB.

1. The oil consumption....the dealers here said its "normal"....My old aircooleds don't even use as much oil as the 2.0 did...and they burn it! IIRC VW had a problem w/ the valves sealing on the earlier B/J/G 2.0's.

1. The sludge: You are correct in saying the water is nothing more than condensation. We too had this same problem. I also believe it to be caused by a poorly designed PVC/Evap system. Only way to fix it...trade up for a 1.8T or TDi...and even then, I've seen it from time to time. Worry about it? I wouldn't.

2. The o2: Here in the states, I do believe there is an open recall for the 98's and

Hope some of this info helped...or atleast backed up some already present thoughts.

Nick

I've did an experiment today to try to determine if it is the PCV valve that is gummed up from the sludge as under the filler cap.

I disconnected the hose that runs from the filler cap housing to the PCV. And ran the car a bit. Even when warm, there didn't seem to be any suction from the PCV. I capped it off temporarily and drove around a bit to see if there was any difference. It seemed like it idled a little bit smoother, but I couldn't tell. The hose was full of gunk, but I couldn't really tell what the deal was with the PCV. And it seems to be intergal to the intake hose so I didn't try too hard to get it out. Should there be suction discernable from the PCV?

I did all this without my wife knowing anything about it. When she used the car in the afternoon, when she came back, she asked if I did anything to the car. She said it had more juice than normal. This was with the PCV capped off and the hose venting the air.

If it turns out to be the PCV, I'll replac eit and reconnet the hose. But what should I do about cleaning out the gunk in the oilways?

Joseph

Thanks for the info. What I am looking for at this time is a way to get the engine light to stay off in a legit manner so that I can sell the car with a good conscience to a private party. To trade it in at the dealer I wouldn't hesitate for a minute but we can't afford a new car right now, and we'd take a bath trying to trade for a car of somewhat equal value.

Any ideas on how to get the silly engine light to stay off?

Joseph

get a decent mechanic.

or...since it's a VW....pull the dash apart and remove the LED that lights the pesky CEL? It COULD be one of MANY things...I'd find someone independant w/ a VAG setup...and have em scan it.

Nick

Hello Joseph

I have two golfs... 99 and 2000.

Both cars get the sludge under the cap....most of it is in the cap adapter housing that is in the top of the valve cover.

A lot of if went in the hose that goes to the air intake tube before the T-body. In that hose right at the tube is a red rubber flapper valve that is used to give a little vacuum and not pump air back into the valve cover when you let off the gas.

I took the oil cap off and then quarter turned the adaptor off.... Clock Wise to take off. Then cleaned out the thing real good with brake cleaner ...with all the hoses taken off.

Then I took the air intake hose off and cleaned out the tube and that check valve flap.

Tons of crap came out of the tube and valve.

As far as worrying about it....I would not worry to much...just check it..and when it shows up....clean it out.... 6 months...every year.

It's just water vapor that boils up to the top of the engine and gets mixed with oil as it cools.

Just remember...when it's clean....it works. If it's plugged up with crap....well...you get the idea...it won't work.

That's my 2 bits for it....hope this helps you.

Matt

Problem is I live way out in the middle of nowhere. Any venture to a new mechanic is a huge project just to find one. then getting there, trying them out, spending money, waiting, etc.

Very frustrating..., :-(

Joseph

You can buy the VAG com tool for a laptop:

It's a good chunk of change, but if you were planning on keep the car for a while, it may be worth the money. Besides, if you were to reset the check engine light a few times with it, the money saved from not having to take it to the dealer would pay for the kit.