Some alloys I ordered arrived today. Specifically asked the seller whether they were new or refurbished. They said new, they are not. They were dirt cheap, and they do look reasonable (aside from a slight colour difference vs centre cap... which is why I asked ffs) just a few dimples where I guess blistering has been blasted out. Should I have any reservations about using them? I guess there's no way of knowing if they've been bent back to shape.
-- S i g n a l @ l i n e o n e . n e t
Well, I would say they are not as good a new, but if the price is right .... Are you giving some sort of warranty?
Even new ones are not 100%. In fact all but the very expensive alloys are subject to problems and damage far more than standard cheap steel wheels.
The first alloys were lighter and often stronger than steel wheels and were used for performance-competitive reasons. Then they became popular with car buyers so they came out with cheap versions (cheap being relative) and the general public seemed to fall for them.
Alloys are standard fit on this Golf SE. I looked at steel wheels as a replacement but couldn't find any cheaper! I'm more concerned about safety - I don't know the history of these wheels.
-- S i g n a l @ l i n e o n e . n e t
"Cheap" wheels may be from all sorts of sources, from junker cars to factory rejects to salvaged to repaired damaged to brand new. That your wheels are very cheap does not necessarily mean that they are bad. Or good for that matter.
Cracks may be checked for at any decent machine-shop. They will be able do a Magnaflux test or similar. You can even buy a kit yourself if you know how to interpret what it can tell you.
Straightened-but-uncracked is something else. Alloys will work-harden much more readily than steel, and irregularly work-hardened wheels may behave badly under extreme stress. But generally there are few vendors who would go to that kind of trouble for dubious results, most especially those who have been around a while.
When I worked in a machine-shop, some of the old birds would test fresh castings before machining them by "ringing" them... if a casting had a clear tone and a natural sounding decay period, it was usually good. If it made a "thunk" or there were several jarring notes in the clang they would have it X-rayed for cracks or other defects before doing anything else. You might try the same sort of test with your wheels.
But writing for myself, I would not drive around the block if I were suspicious of my wheels.
Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA
Unless you've owned the car from new, and never let anyone else drive the car, then you don't know about the history of your existing wheels either!
Sean
Hi Peter thanks for the advice. Sadly I read your message too late to try the "thunk" test, they're on already.
One of the wheels did take a bit of balancing, but the engineer who fitted them was confident, and I've experienced no problems driving.
Fingers crossed they're OK....
My next task is alignment.. driving straight the steering wheel is about 10 degrees out. The car drifts slightly to the left when centred. It's been like this for a while. A VW engineer told me I needed a full geometric at £120, plus another £120 for a recheck if anything is changed. Do you think this is necessary, or should I look at a standard 4 point alignment? I ask, because the same bloke told me I had a loose part on my exhaust, which was in fact the engine pinging. I don't have faith in what he says, to say the least. :-)
-- S i g n a l @ l i n e o n e . n e t
Me neither. I'm just one of those guys who can't get my head around cars and mechanics at all - so I figured I would seek enlightenment from those who know better. No harm in asking, I hope.. :-)
Well they're on now, and everything seems to be OK - cracks or no cracks.
-- S i g n a l @ l i n e o n e . n e t
YIKES! Those prices are "dealer" prices on this side of the pond... and the "geometric" that you mention is done typically only after a collision and unibody damage. So, stick with the 4-wheel alignment and be sure to get the "Before" and "After" printout. Do you have the ability to follow your car in another down a road? You can check how well it tracks this way and whether there is any tendency to drift during braking.
The steering wheel being "out" is a simple adjustment. Do you have a dead-level road and dead-straight road around you? See if it tends to drift if the wheel is let go at about 60kph... naturally, conditions have to be 'right' for this test. Or find a crowned road and see if the drift is relative to the crown. This should be irrespective of the precise wheel position.
Note also that in the US, a 75 pound (~32kg) weight is put in the front driver's seat (or should be) during alignment to compensate for the fact that most cars over here are one-occupant. Consider that in your case as well.
Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA
Last time I went to VW they quoted me £40 for a battery over the phone. When I turned up I was presented with an invoice for £108. [I paid £40]. They then quoted me for replacing two bulbs in the dash. £0.17 per bulb.... £95 for fitting.
I started turning to local mechs rather than the dealership. One guy (recommended to me) was OK at first, but recently suggested dismantling the engine to fix a rough idle problem. £250 to 400 he reckoned. Turns out to be a torn hose. The weird thing is it only started idling badly after I took it to him for an MOT. Hmm... slippy fingers? I also found out today he didn't fit spacers on a wheel where he should have.
But... finally after years of searching I've found a mechanic I can trust. He doesn't have a coffee machine or a swanky reception, but he did sort the bulbs, find and replace the ripped hose, run computer diagnostics and tune the engine for £100.64.
Appreciate the help, Peter.. I will try all the above.
-- S i g n a l @ l i n e o n e . n e t
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.