removing hall sender from distributor

I have a 1985 vw cabriolet. i am gettng no spark and have traced back the problem to be the hall sender. i got the circlip of and after much looking found the little screw hidden under the rotor. now i cant get past this how do i remove the metal round puck thing off the shaft and get to the hall sender?

thoughts

thanks

Reply to
vwtopdown
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I cleaned the wiring harness that plugs in to the hall sensor. I goofed up the hall sensor in some way and had to use some JB Weld to glue it in to place. Those sensors are pretty reliable but the wiring harness is not so reliable.

Reply to
Jim Behning

amen to that wiring harness. I've wrapped that sucker many years ago when it gave me problems. but this time i think it's the finally dead or there is a break in the wire in there. i did clean the plug again and unwrapped it to make sure. and the jiggle test ; )

Reply to
vwtopdown

I seem to remember using to flat screwdrivers to pry up that metal round puck thing off the shaft evenly. On the later distributors without the vacuum advance you need to take off the drive gear but it does not have the little circlip at the top like yours.

BTW How much is a used distributor and how much is a new Hall Sensor? ;-)

Good luck!

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Well from adavance auto a rebuilt one is 140 and off ebay the hall sender is about 70 plus ship. i had another dist from a 84 jetta and was using that to go by. i could get the puck up a bit and it would stop. finally got it off but i think i popped it off when the inner part should still be attached (maybe 20 years of oxidation and rust in there) . i read somewhere else about maybe hitting inside the rotor shaft to drop the spline. anyways, i decided to go for a rebuilt since finding a used one would still be one that was over twenty years old. and this way i can just drop it in and aadjust the timing. as much as i try to save a buck trying to figure how to get it apart was taking more time than spending a couple extra bucks. plus this will be freshly rebuilt.!!!

mike

Reply to
vwtopdown

Once the circlip is off the shutter is held on by friction and rust (oxidation). The key (or pin) does not lock it down, it merely keeps it in position as the shaft is spinning. After it has been soaked in penetrating oil for a long time, it can be pryed off with two screwdrivers. If you try to use only one it will bend the metal on the shutter and you could end up with a shutter that is out of round. If you had four hands, it would be even better to pry with four screwdrivers. If it is seized, there is a point where the metal will bend (the shutter) and it will still be on the distributor.

Reply to
jfruniontown

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