Replacing fuel pump on 95 Golf - replace gasket, too?

Recently, I posted about my 95 Golf 2.0 cutting out when making sharp turns when the gas was below 1/4 tank and, since the fuel sender has been wacky for about 2 years and needs to be replaced, I have decided to bite the bullet and install a new pump and sender.

My question is whether or not to go ahead and order the seal (I think it's rubber), the one Bentley says to lubricate with gasoline when reinstalling the pump assembly. I think the seal is fairly expensive ($10?) and figured why spend an extra 10 bucks if they hold up well. But if they don't hold up, I'd be happy to pay for the seal to do the job right.

Thanks!

Bill

78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93 95 Golf GL...since 11/99 02 Passat 1.8T Tip GLS...since 4/02
Reply to
William Maslin
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transfer pump or fuel level sending unit SEAL is probably good! ;-)

later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris

Reply to
dave

I just had to do this a couple of weeks ago, my 95 4 door was giving me problems and I assumed that it was the fuel pump because I couldn't hear it anymore, well I got one for $350! they don't just sell you the pump anymore its the whole assembly minus the sending unit. anyway all my gaskets were eatin' away and sucked into the filters and that is my car would give me grief going around right hand corners with less than a 1/4 tank of gas, new pump=keeping your foot in it in a right turn.:) BTW my gas guage got FLAKIER, go figure. I just fill it up and reset the odo and wait 250 miles.

Reply to
nataS

I've got the exact same symptoms on a 94 Jetta 2.0. Except I can only go

230-240 miles before the 1/4-tank-right-turns-are-interesting thing happens :) So are you saying the new pump assembly *did not* fix these symptoms? I pulled my pump assembly and looked at it. There appears to be a rubber seal missing at the base of it that would normally help to retain fuel around the pump when in a turn. I figured the only way to get the seal was to get a new pump.
Reply to
DriveSpy

When I made my original post one reply was from a mechanic from South America. Here it is:

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I assume he was talking about the part you noted. By the way, how did you remove the "Mason jar lid" that holds the pump assy in place. I made a tool yesterday - a U-shaped piece of 1" wide heavy aluminum that seems to engage the ribs on the cap OK. I plan to cut a hole in the top and square it up so that I can use a ratchet wrench to turn it. But I haven't tested it yet.

Bill

Reply to
William Maslin

I had a huge pair of Channellocks in the tool crib. I essentially used them as a spanner wrench. It seemed to work as it didn't butcher the plastic ring at all. I guess new fuel pump gets added to the list of things that get attention when school is over in a month.

Reply to
DriveSpy

OK, thanks. If my home made tool doesn't cut it, I can probably borrow some big pliers from the maintenace folks here.

FWIW, last week or maybe two weeks ago, I priced the pump/sender at vwparts.com. It was $167. Then on Sunday I was talking to my son about the 1976 Triumph TR6 that he is restoring and we started discussing the SU carburettor replacement kits being sold to replace the troublesome and worn out Strombergs on those cars. He said he was thinking of getting the SUs and that the price at one vendor had already gone up $200 because of the falling dollar. So yesterday I decided to go ahead and order the Golf fuel pump and it had gone up to $322! Fortunately, I found the same unit at germanautoparts.com (really nice folks by the way) for $187 and I ordered it.

Bill

78 Rabbit...10/77 - 4/02 82 Convertibles(s)...since 93 95 Golf GL...since 11/99 02 Passat 1.8T Tip GLS...since 4/02
Reply to
William Maslin

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