Sealant

Like weatherstrip adheasive?

We have two pop-tops, an '87 Westie and a '99 Winnie.

a) There are several grades of silicon glue/sealant, one is fiber- reinforced and quite dense, typically sold as 'weatherstripping adhesive" from an automotive supply, or in large caulk-style tubes as "edge sealant" from a roofing supply. If you go to a roofing supply (cheaper), make sure you demand SILICON BASED material. There are several neoprene materials that are equally as good but a major PITA to clean and even more of a major PITA to remove or replace if ever required. Similarly for the weatherstrip adhesives. Some are silicon based, some are not. Stick with the silicon-based materials.

b) You will note that the weatherstripping has a metal internal clamp/ spring system that gets spread out and loose.

The "proper" procedure is to remove the entire weather strip and clean it internally and externally. Similarly the edge of the fiberglass top. Then with a rubber mallet, tap the strip on the flat-side all around to reset the internal clamp. Do this lightly, you do not want to over-tighten and/or crack the clamp.

You will need a helper with this next step, two are better.

Then, lay a medium bead of silicon adhesive (black if you get the reinforced stuff, so be careful with it) just ahead of yourself. Have Helper #1 hold your starting point (typically a corner for location purposes) and start pushing the strip into place, caulking ahead of it. Maintain this all around the top. If you have helper #2, have that person caulk, you press. Once entirely in place, with the same rubber mallet go around again and tap the stripping into place to make sure it is bottomed in the clamp. Clean up any excess immediately. You will need ~2 tubes of caulk material for the entire perimeter. While you are there, do the fixed section as well.

Allow to dry for 24 hours before driving the vehicle. Leave the top popped so as not to distort anything.

When done (and cured... 24 hours later), saturate the entire shebang with "dry silicon" spray.... you did clean the stripping first, correct? this will help protect against UV and ozone as well as repel dirt. Make a note to do the silicon each spring anyway. You will need ~12oz/400gm of dry spray for this. If you cannot find it at your automotive supply, you will find it at your local gun shop and some good hobby shops. Use the entire can in several layers, round and round. Mind the overspray... I use a piece of stiff cardboard as a shield when I spray to keep it off the paint... no worries with the fiberglass top.

For cold weather (below 40F/5C), allow 8 hours additional for each 5/3 degrees below 40F/5C for curing.

In a pinch, standard Silicon Sealant may be used, but uniform application, cleanliness and curing become absolutely critical as the standard material has much less binding strength until fully cured, and much poorer adhesive properties on contaminated or dirty surfaces.

This should give you another 20 years.

Peter Wieck Wyncote, PA

Thanks!!!!! C