Superglue oil leak fix

I think you will find that:

1. It will be all but impossible to get the helicoil and pan clean enough to allow superglue to adhere.
2. The glue will probably shatter at some point.

I you want to try filling the gaps, consider something like a non-hardening high temperature gasket sealer after thoroughly cleaning the pan and helicoil. After all this fiddling around you may ultimately find a boneyard pan is the best way to go.

why don't you just replace the oil pan and not waste your time.

Super glue works on a lot of rubber and plastic but it will not work on metal. I'd use an epoxy mix.

May not hurt. Then if/when that fails, if u remove tank, you can weld in a replacement plug/nut cheaply--don't hafta buy another pan. s

Yep: Because it's the wrong material for the job. A fluid-sealing Helicoil needs anaerobic thread sealant ("Loctite") which is chemically related to super glue, but not at all the same. If the original repair didn't include such a sealant, then the repair was not done correctly and needs to be redone.

I can think of a bunch of reasons why this might (probably) not work.

Like a previous poster said: I doubt you'll get it clean enough to get the glue to do any real good. I'll assume you want to try this to not remove the pan to fix it properly. I'd pull the pan, clean it squeaky clean, then patch the insert leak with an epoxy like JBWeld. Be careful not to get it on any part you don't want it to stay on forever. It can be wiped clean & removed when soft. If mixed right, once it's hard it's there for eternity.

Did the original story also mention that you'll probably have to seal up the exhaust for the shop vac to build enough draw to suck fluid through cracks? At least one valve in that engine will likely be open to the exhaust no matter what position the crankshaft is at. Don't forget any EGR system on the engine - gotta plug that up too. Not just plug, but seal completely airtight. Are your valve covers & gaskets in minty-mint shape and seal 100%? I have to wonder how strong a shop vac you need for this to even come close to working ... ;)

Also, super glue will get brittle from engine heat over time and crumble. SG is great for surface-to-surface repairs, but a crack is not that kind of a repair - it's a jagged hole with a gap to fill. Even the thicker gel type of SG stinks at that kind of repair. You'll probably be right back where you started.

Good luck, - JJ

If the gap is so big that capillary action alone won't pull the super glue in where you want it, then the gap's too big to use super glue to repair.

I agree, JB Weld is a better idea for this application.

You are just risking your engine. Get a new or used pan, along with a good (new) gasket. You can find both on the internet at lower prices than what the dealers charge.

yeah, seriously. It's probably not worth the time and effort to do it when you figure it out.

and the gasket

and a nice shiny new drain plug

total cost $41 plus shipping, and you get a nice, undented oil pan that you can paint the color of your choice to add a nice detailed touch to the bottom of your engine. You will probably spend more time scraping off the old gasket than you will doing anything else. (or are you the guy that was already R&Ring the oil pan? if so then you REALLY need to just buy a new pan.)

nate

Go for it man. This World needs pioneers and risk takers. Please report your results back here so all humanity can benefit.

Huw

Then it can't be a helicoil insert because this restores the thread back to the original size and the bolt washer ought to seal over the whole of the top of it. Maybe you mean some sort of solid type insert which involved tapping the original thread out to a much larger size. In that case it should have been installed with loctite or some other type of sealant.

Probably the easiest fix is to put a bigger washer under the bolt head which covers the whole of the repair area and maybe even use a bit of silicone sealant under that too.

-- Dave Baker

just replace the pan, it is easy job, and you can pick up a used pan at a junk yard, or just buy a new one..good luck e.w.rogers

Many good suggestions have been made. However, you could also just use one of those aftermarket rubber plugs that seal from the inside.

I've never heard of those. Got a link?

Oh, and I tried the vacuum-and-superglue thing tonight. Still leaks. Guess I'll be headed to the junkyard for a "new" pan.

You did see where parts4vws has a new pan for $20, didn't you?

nate