Temp gauge in 99 1.8T Passat

Hi Group, I recently changed my G62 coolant temp sensor due to a CEL condition. All is fixed runs great, but now the gauge does not always say at

190. It comes down a little bit maybe one notch mark. I was reading up that there was a new version of this sensor due to problems, like the ones I had. Does anyone else experience this slight variation in the gauge?

Thank you in advance for you assistance, Weldon

Reply to
wjcimbri
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From what I have read the "updated" G62/CTS (coolant temperature sensor) comes up to temperature faster than the original ones. This helps to not set a DTC and should be a different color too. I don't think you have a problem if your Engine check light stays off even though your gauge may fluctuate a little. Of course your thermostat may be at fault if the engine stays too cool. Supposedly if you add too much coolant and not enough water that could cause problems too. ;-)

Here are two Passat specific yahoo groups you can join. snipped-for-privacy@yahoogroups.com snipped-for-privacy@yahoogroups.com

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Thanks for the reply. The car is running great, and it does get to 190 some times. I am going to leave it alone, I may have a weak thermostat. If so I will replace it at a later time.

Thanks!

Reply to
wjcimbri

Reply to
Jim Behning

WOW I just did a water pump on a 1999 Passat 1.8t. It had the external water pump and the thermostat is fairly easy to get to without doing a lot of work, but the water pump ain't! lol It was not a fun job to do it, but the water pump was wobbling & rattling and the owners were taking a long trip in their car.

Of course Jim is correct = other components/things suffer if the proper operating temp is not achieved! So it is best to make sure things are working properly!!!!

It maybe worth your while to purchase the ross-tech.com adapter or maybe a clone of that tool so you can plug into your ECM to see what it sees. Then you can monitor how fast the coolant temperature rises and where it stabilizes at.

JMHO

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I think it still may be another faulty sensor. The old sensor kept throwing up a CEL but it would always read 190. The gas mileage has remained consistent. I could be the thermostat. I do have VAG COM, but I believe that the reading I would get on VAG COM would come from that sensor, so I do not see sense. The belt is up in 15K and I always change the thermostat at that time.

Thanks for the replies!

Reply to
wjcimbri

I only recommend the G62 sensors from the dealer! Not sure if the aftermarket ones are "perfect"!

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

On the TDI a standard timing belt service includes new water pump, new idler pulleys, new tensioner, new serpentine belt. My friend had his

2002 1.8t serviced and the kit he got had a new water pump. Is it a best practice to change water pump on the 1.8 like it is on the TDI?

I would watch the water temp rise in Vagcom just to see what it is doing. Many VWs have idiot gauges. They read 190 but the temp can vary a good bit. How much that good bit is unknown to me. If your gauge is reading a bit low it might be that the temp is more than a bit low.

Another days of old story. You could buy a temperature sensor for an A1 engine. Problem is the temp sensor could be 120C or 150C. One was for oil temp and one was for water temp. They look the same but the range is stamped on the sensor.

The Bentley repair manual has some test>I think it still may be another faulty sensor. The old sensor kept throwing

Reply to
Jim Behning

Doing a water pump at the belt interval is a good idea. Mine was done at the last belt change. You may have a good point about after market sensors, I may have to go to VW for that.

Reply to
wjcimbri

Not sure I would do the water pump at the same time I would do the Timing Belt on the AEB engines though, since they are basically not connected like the later engines where the water pump is inside of the engine run by the timing belt. You save some labor time but the AEB engine requires the alternator plus more to be removed IF you are changing the entire housing. Here little bolts going into aluminum like to seize up!

So while changing the T-Belt on an AEB engine, I would definitely check the water pump and change it ONLY if bad! Engines with the water pump run by the Timing Belt..........CHANGE THAT WATER PUMP!!!

Now if the "owner" is doing the T-belt, I would recommend doing everything while things are out of the way, but do it carefully!

YMMV

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

There are advantages to living in a salt free area. Less corrosion but I still get nervous on some fastners.

Reply to
Jim Behning

Yeah tell me about it. I had one customer move to the south and his 1997 Jetta exhaust downpipe started to fall apart. No place wanted to replace it due to the rust on the nuts/bolts/studs. lol The places actually told him to junk the car!!!! We find rust and corrosion here all of the time and the BLUE wrench usually helps to remove them without breakage.

You lucky people that live in the salt free areas!

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

I moved to New Mexico from Northern Indiana 3 years ago. The ease of removal of parts makes it worth the bland landscape.

Reply to
LG

ONLY if you have a car that has live in the rust-free zone! lol

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

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