VW Golf Mk2 Headlamp problem!

Hi, I have a 1991 golf 1.8 carb with a confusing problem...

The N/S headlamp bulb is not working. The bulb is definitely fine as it works when swapped over to the driver's side. I have tested the N/S bulb connector contacts with a multimeter and I have >12v being supplied to the bulb (identically to the O/S), so I am totally confused as to why it won't work. The only thing I can think of is somehow a lack of current being supplied to the bulb connector, but how do I test for this?

Any ideas from anyone??? Your help would be MUCH appreciated!

Thanks,

Craig

Reply to
crj80
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I take it to measure the 12V you took the connector off the bulb?

Try it with the bulb connected. If you have a poor connection or a burnt-out switch contact that is resistive, that 12v will drop an awful lot on-load.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

If you are getting power to the connector, then I'd check continuity on the earth.

Reply to
Jon B

If the 12V isn't across the headlight bulb when it's meant to be on, it must be across somewhere else - that's where the bad connection is.

I had a frustrating problem with my old Polo recently - no dipped beam after driving for a while, but dim-dip worked when sidelights selected with ignition on. One of the connectors had come adrift below the fuse-box. Could be there's a loose connection somewhere for you. Do the simple things first before looking into inaccessible places!

Reply to
Dave Hall

You need to test the voltage with the bulb in the circuit... Any other test is useless.

Reply to
PeterD

Thanks for the quick response everyone. I have tested earth continuity on both negative pins and that is fine. I have just measured the voltage with bulb in connector, and I have 0v when the switch is on. Does this mean I just need to replace the connector or could the problem be elsewhere you think? If so, is there a way I can trace it?

Thanks,

Craig

Reply to
crj80

My money would be on the switch, or if your car has the stupis dim-dip system, the dim-dip relay. Check the connector anyway, and the fuses and fusebox for dirt or corrosion.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

Funny you should say that as I just pulled the fuse out (didn't bother checking it before seeing as I had 12v to the switch) and it is quite corroded. Swapped it with the other headlight fuse and it works! Weird thing is, swapping them round makes them both work?? I'm gonna pick up a couple of new ones anyway.

Really appreciate the advice here so thanks.

Reply to
crj80

You've just knocked off the corrosion I expect. Cheapest repair around - apart from replugging the connectors in properly!

Reply to
Dave Hall

Could be the connector, fuse/circuit breaker, wire, or other connector(s) in the circuit. You'll have to back probe down the line until you find the fault.

Having a *good* (say a Bentley or factory) diagram will be worth its weight in gold!

Reply to
PeterD

You got lucky!

Probably a bad connecton at the fuse (common in VWs in the past). Did you see any corrosion on the fuse pins when it came out?

Reply to
PeterD

And the next job to do is to use the current feeds to the lamps to switch a pair of relays supplying 12v to the bulbs direct from the battery. It's probably the quickest and easiest way to upgrade the usual shonky VW headlamp wiring.

Reply to
SteveH

That was a very popular mod a few years ago. Affected the MK1 worse though. Someone (BR Motorsport?) used to make a kit with relays and a loom that just plugged in. It made quite a difference, as there's quite a voltage drop across the cables and switch.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

I thought that myself! Could have been a much bigger pain in the backside I reckon.

No, couldn't spot any corrosion there but it's prob worth a closer inspection to be honest. Won't do any harm to check the other fuses I suppose as there must have been a reason for this happening...

Cheers,

Craig

Reply to
crj80

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