VW Rabbit Timing Belt Tensioner - help removing

So you have removed the nut and you can't slide the tensioner off of the stud huh? Option 1: Try carefully jacking up the engine and you should get enough clearance to remove or install the tensioner.

Option 2: Also you could possible lock two nuts on the stud and remove it like a bolt. Then you can remove both the stud and the tensioner together. I prefer Option 1.

Did you lock everything down before you removed the belt? The cam, FI pump etc? The advance cable for the FI pump fully pushed in?

I got mine out by jacking the engine up by the oil pan a little bit (careful, don't break a motor mount!). If necessary you can remove the single long motor mount bolt that goes through the passenger side mount, and remove the two bolts holding the front motor mount to the frame (under the radiator) to jack up the engine more.

It's a lot easier on a gas engine as the tensioner is skinnier.

I dunno, you'd have to find two skinny nuts, or use a grinder to make them skinny. I don't think there are enough threads to fit two nuts on there along with the tensioner. I could be wrong though.

Ditto.

Thank you to everyone who replied. I put a jack under the engine, and removed the passenger side engine mount bolt. Jacked the engine up a couple of inches, and the tensioner came right out.

Also, FYI...I used the VW timing belt tools to make sure the cam and injection pump did not move. i.e. a metel wedge that keeps the cam in placeat TDC, and a bolt to keep the injection pump in place.

Jeff

First, the hole on the timing belt tensioners is offset. The tensioner will naturally rotate around to hang farthest down. You may be able to gain the clearance you need by rotating the center of the tensioner upwards, then sliding it off.

Otherwise, a 1978 Rabbit could likely have a worn engine mount on that side. Quick fix, jack the engine up and slide the tensioner off. But you'll probably want to consider replacing that engine mount if that's the case.

Last possibility, remove the stud from the cylinder head and take the tensioner out with it. Thread on a couple of nuts, and tighten them together, then you can back out the stud. Of course, there's a small risk of damaging the stud or cylinder head threads, but it may be the best option.

Good luck,

Anthony

congrats and I will assume that all is right again and you are getting more mpg than most of us again. lol

Regarding 78 VW Diesel Rabbit:

Could Dave or maybe someone else in the group help me with a new problem?

I think the timing belt slipped or the cam moved when I put the belt back on after I installed the tensioner. The timing is now messed up. It starts, runs very rough, then dies (lots of blue smoke). I went back and set the engine cam to TDC, lined the overhead cam up with the "metal bar" in the slot, and lined the injection pump "notches" (notch on injection pump pulley lined up on w/ notch on top of injection pump).

What am I missing? How would I know if I damaged valves as opposed to having an injection pump timing problem? I don't hear any loud "taps" like valves hitting pistons, it's more like the injection pump is off. But, again...I think I have everything lined back up...

Thank you in advance!

Jeff

Ok. you have to line up the crankshaft through the hole in the top of the transmission too. There's a plastic cover and the flywheel has a timing mark. There's a tool that locks the flywheel, that isn't necessary but you have to check it with a ruler or something. Also, did you pop off the camshaft pulley. You loosen up the nut , a little , stick a prybar or screwdriver in between the head. Put tension on it, You rap it with a hammer and it pops off. It floats until you get the belt tight . If you didnt , when you tighten the belt, the crankshaft moves out of time instead of the cam gear moving to keep everything lined up. You didn't mention this. I think this is your issue.

IIRC Timing belt is critical esp. with the diesels. Crank at TDC Camshaft aligned with cylinder head (adjusted by loosening the camshaft bolt and sprocket off the cam) Fuel Injection pump at proper setting with the cable pushed all the way in.

Then after the timing belt is installed properly and all bolts are torqued down, you rotate the engine by hand or with a wrench at least 2 complete revolutions and then check your marks again.

Setting up the FI pump with a dial indicator is supposed to be the ideal way to set that pump up.

OH and make sure that you turn the timing belt tensioner CW to tighten the belt. ;-)

later, dave (One out of many daves)

I have changed the belt on mine a number of times and don't remember ever having to need to remove the tensioner wheel. I just got it slack and then the belt slid off the crank and off the cam.

You don't have to replace the tensioner, but it's a good idea to do it at least every other timing belt change (120Kmi). I like to replace the water pump at that interval, also.

Tensioners can get old and seize up, which causes the belt to break. Since these are extreme interference engines, it's pretty ugly when that happens. ;)

You think it may have slipped? Why? It runs. It sounds like you are not getting fuel to the cylinders and are drawing up oil from the crankcase. Try bleeding the injectors of air while the engine is running. One at a time, crack open the steel line nut so fuel starts leaking around the steel line at the top of the injector(starting with the injector farthest from the pump). Count out 15 secs or so. During that period of time all you see is clear fluid welling up. If you see foam (that is the air) just wait until it becomes just clear fluid with no foam, then close off that line. Move to the next injector. Do all 4 , and when yer done you will note the car runs so very much better. Let me know how it went. snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com