Believe I've cooked a couple of alternators by giving people jump starts from my
vehicle's battery while it's hooked into the electrical system.
Based on that, I've always disconnected the battery before charging it.
Just got a new microprocessor-controlled four-stage "smart" charger and now I'm
wondering if this thing is smart enough to not damage my electrical system if I
charge the battery at the "slow charge" (i.e. 2 amps max) setting.
Anybody doing this on any kind of regular basis with no problems?
you normally leave the battery connected to the battery cables of both
vehicles, and you normally leave the vehicle you are using as the
source vehicle running... at least I do.
If you connect the cables correctly you should have no problems.
I guess my answer was more towards jump starting the car.....
I don't follow why you would need to disconnect the battery to charge
What are you doing where you have to charge the battery on a regular
basis? I could see having to do that if maybe the truck sat for
months at a time without being started but other than that you should
not have to charge the battery unless you have problems like (a bad
battery, a faulty alternator, or a parasitic drain)..
Not exactly "regular", but my 1998 'burb has light switches that lend themselves
to draining the battery. For instance: open up the rear hatch and fail to
latch it down completely during a day at the beach. Turns on at least one light
in the cabin that is not visible in daylight, but drains the battery over the
course of a day. There are others, but don't recall them at the moment. Mostly
mitigated by the proper setting of the "Interior Light" option on the
dashboard....but it still happens.
My 98 Burb also did this. Troubleshooting is a pain because the
computer that helps to regulate the lights. I removed the switch from
the barn door and cleaned it and reinstalled it. Ultimately I had to
remove the switch from the passenger front door.Haven't had an issue
I'd recommend checking those cheap plastic switches for the front
doors. Some folks say its because the plastic dash moves over time
widening the gap for the plastic switches. Anyway, have loads of
patience, this took me a couple of weeks to track down.
Pete, I've never heard of anyone brave enough to try it but I would stick
with your current habit of disconnecting. I never charged a battery while
it's installed and would never recommend it. Electricity takes the path of
least resistance, I don't care how smart the charger is. If someone tells
you otherwise please post it, I'd like to hear about it.
Not a very good answer for Vehicle that have the CHIP in the ignition key..
I also heard that you wud Have to REprogram the ANTI THEFT for the RADIO !
The garages I know of Make a Tool that Has a 9 volt battery , which
they plug into the Ciggerette Lighter socket to Keep power to those
circuits When Changing the BATTERY
It Doesnot Take Brains To
Get A High Paying Job!
I did an end run: started carrying a spare in the other battery well. If
somebody needs a jump, I give it from the spare or not at all.
Turned out to be a good thing also because I periodically manage to run down the
main batt doing something dumb like leaving the rear hatch window unlatched at
the beach all day... It's saved me at least a half-dozen times already.
Uh, have you tried a battery box? LOL
I've learned that I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it! (That is what my
X-wife told me)
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A proud charter member of "PETAF", People for Eating Tasty Animals and Fish!!!
On Wed, 22 Mar 2006 23:00:35 -0600, "Dan, danl, danny boy, Redbeard,
I have looked at many battery boxes, and they are all too large. I
guess its because they are designed for free form installation (on an
off-road vehicle (dune buggy) or under a boat seat). The space for the
second battery in my Suburban is just a bit larger than the battery
would be itself. If someone knows of a battery box that would fit, I
would like to hear about it.
Thanks for the response!
That's what I was thinking after I hit the "Send" key.
Personally, I'd pay a few bucks just to not have to deal with the acid and
lead... Also, I'm guessing there are various sizes/thickness of cases and
you'd be in a position to chose what looks to work best...
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