Radiator prob '91 Integra ?

Is it typical for the top seal of original radiator in a '91 Integra to begin to fail @ 23 years of use ?
It is loosing radiator fluid about 8 oz ( .250 L) every 2-3 days but not much more than that afterwards (slowly looses more but not drastically)
No obvious drips/puddles or leaks underneath after driving .
I noticed the Top seam around the radiator top is wetted with radiator fluid. It is original radiator and appears to be constructed with folded tabs holding the top on radiator. I am supposing that there is a rubber seal in the seam and is probably failing ??
No chance of successfully fixing that ?
So, if radiator is replaced what other work and replacement should be done at that same time since it looks like alot of stuff, hoses and such must be removed/disconnected.
Thanks for any helpful advise, robb
BTW
is alt.autos.acura not used anymore ? looks like low traffic ? where have all the Acura-ians been displaced/moved to ?
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Reply to
robb
Does radiator brand matter ? Which to avoid ? I found numerous brands on web with price $ 56 - 218
TOYO ? Koyo, denso, CSF, metrix, spectra , gpd, apdi etc......
robb
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Reply to
robb
"robb" wrote in news:m2rh88$71g$ snipped-for-privacy@adenine.netfront.net:
You got that many years out of it before it started to leak? You got VERY lucky.
You mean "losing" and "loses". "Loosing" and "looses" are not valid words.
Toyo, Koyo, and Denso should be good bets. There are other good ones. Stay away from the cheapest.
When buying aftermarket, it's best to stay away from the Web entirely and instead buy from a local jobber, the kind of place that supplies garages in your area (NOT AutoZone, etc). Chances are very good that the first aftermarket one you get will have some sort of defect and will need to be exchanged. That gets expensive when buying off the Web, on account of needing to ship the defective one back to the vendor at your own cost.
Reply to
Tegger
Hi, Water pump as well while you are at it. Winter is coming. Or for temporary fix, try sealer. That is lot of leak which is evaporting by engine heat.
Reply to
Tony Hwang
Tony Hwang wrote in news:2Gi4w.74688$ snipped-for-privacy@fx26.iad:
You do the water pump when you do the TIMING BELT, not the radiator.
And DO NOT use "sealer". That's a bad idea, especially when replacing the rad is so easy on this vehicle.
Reply to
Tegger

Low miles (93k) ?
Great.
Thank you for help. robb
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Reply to
robb
Bob wrote in news:MPG.2ec5b348bc882c8a989cc6 @news.eternal-september.org:
I'm still around. Not much happening on Usenet these days, though.
Reply to
Tegger

But where are the happening Acura places ?
I know some other news groups migrated to google groups or other forums but that was a hassle to follow several different groups. Not so easy as click/navigating a tree of news group names/threads etc.
BTW
I did purchase the radiator from what I had considered a reputable parts house -- $150
I don't know how it worked out, they said Toyo or Denso radiator over the phone. They had to bring it from warehouse to arrive at 4:30. They call and I rush to pick it up just before closing at 5:30. When I open the box it is METRIX and has two aluminum pipe elbows (at bottom) for the transmission. Well i have manual don't need the transmission cooler. I call the next morning to get one for MT and they say they can't get one without the transmission cooler connections even with all the different brands they can get (Toyo, denso, Metrix, etc). I could bring it back for refund or just leave the dust covers on the transmission cooler connections and install it.
So , I Install and the METRIX . The dimensions are off in a few key places, it is a good 1/4 inch ( 8 mm ) thicker than the factory denso on the car and that was already tight with AC hoses. Also the bracket and fan mount points are off enough to need some tweeking or just bad copy of the denso.
robb
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Reply to
robb
"robb" wrote in news:m3hpn9$30t0$ snipped-for-privacy@adenine.netfront.net:
I don't think there are any. Acura and Honda tend to get bunched together under "Honda". There are a number of Honda Web boards.
That's about right.
The tiny production quantities of aftermarket parts don't allow for the differentiation of MT and AT rads, or of single-core and dual-core rads. So all that's available is AT with dual-core. Which is perfectly fine.
You can use a pair of snips to crush the cooler stubs. You want to snip a little off the ends, so they're sort of crimped shut.
It'a aftermarket, so /poor/ fit is generally to be expected. But if it plain /doesn't/ fit, then you really should ask for a different brand.
Occasionally there is need to bend up the top brackets to make them fit, and maybe stack something under the bottom mounting studs to raise the rad a bit.
Having said that, I have found that, generally, aftermarket rads do fit surprisingly well, with little to no modification needed.
Reply to
Tegger

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