Is this the right price for this car. The car is in excellent shape. no
problems, just wondering why so low ? What are the things i should check
Maybe car is stolen ?? who knows?
2003 BMW 325XI AWD Sedan
Engine: 6 CYLINDER 2.5 LITER
VIN Number: WBAEU33452PF58124
STILL UNDER BMW FACTORY WARRANTY UNTIL 06/28/2006
If you are in the US, the first thing you want to do is get a Carfax
report. It costs $25 (although they will give you a partial for free)
but it is worth the peace of mind. If you are buying from a dealer he
should give you one, and you should insist on one( and at no cost to
you). Go to:http://www.carfax.com .
If carfax tells you nothing, you know nothing.
If carfax tells you there are bunch of problems, it's worthwhile.
Taking a clean carfax report as absolution of any possiblity of problems is
foolish, but it's still useful.
Someone on one of the Porsche sites has a page up which pairs a perfect
carfax report with pictures of a badly wrecked and rebuilt car - Car was a
total, and rebuilt - but nothing in the report to reflect that.
Your experienced mechanic whom you have cultivated all these years
will drive it, put it up on the rack, and look for all the trouble
Carfax is good for public records, particularly tracing changes of
title. If you would prefer a one owner car, Carfax will tell you, as
it told me, that the car I was interested in had originally been
titled in Virginia, then Mississippi, then Oklahoma, and then was
bought at a dealer auction in Ohio. That may mean nothing but
I prefer limited prior ownership. The last car I sold had 50,000
miles on it when I bought it. I never thought about it at the time I
bought it (I had a life back then!) but when I sold it I did a Carfax
on it for fun and it had been a lease car.
So Carfax is OK for tracing title.
On Fri, 13 May 2005 07:26:30 -0400, "Somebody"
Carfax doesnt show accidents in all states.
also, someone could have smacked the car up and not reported the accident in
a police report.
(like hit a tree)
wont show up on carfax then.
always have a good mechanic look at the car on the lift.
if its bought on the internet pay Lemon Detectors or someone to look at it.
although someone here may want to comment as to how good they are when you
guy i used was good but i was there.
Here's the difference: If you see that it has problems you can save
yourself from taking a beating by paying too much for the car.
If it doesn't say it has problems then you are not garanteed that it
doesn't, but you are only out $20 for the priveledge of being back to
the same place (not knowing if it has problems)
The price is quite low. Have you run a carfax on it - I'd wonder
about whether it's been re-built after a wreck. One specific thing
about this "ad" worries me: US warranties on BMWs are 4-years
or 48K miles, SO THE WARRANTY IS OVER as it has 60K on it.
The fact that it's a too good to be true deal notwithstanding - it could be
covered by a CPO warranty.
A Carfax is definitely in order. If it's an ebay car, the seller, location
and circumstances in general require scrutiny. Sounds like one of those
private auction/car in Nigeria/free shipping/will deliver on receipt of half
the money-send me the rest if you like the car deals/scams.
The price is low because the miles are high. The mileage is 30,000 per year
for two years. That is high, and the price is discounted. I am not
suggesting this is necessarily a bad thing, but the value of a vehicle is
based on its expected life, or life remaining. And since so much of the
total miles have already been used, the remaining life is diminished as
compared to other cars of the same age. My '94 3 Series has almost 220,000
miles on it and is still going strong, so I suspect you are getting a good
value, especially if you are the kind of person that turns a car over in a
few years anyway.
Go to www.kbb.com and plug in the information asked for, and see what the
price comes back as. Since you are doing a Private Party transaction, then
you should look at that pricing model. KBB will price out with Wholesale -
the price a dealer will pay you on trade in - Retail - the price the dealer
will sell you the car for - and Private Party - the price you pay somebody
when you find a car you like in the newspaper or parked on the corner in
No, I already discounted the price for high mileage and it comes up $10k
short of wholesale.
Also, forget about kbb.com. Their prices are all over the map. I use
the nada values same as the dealers do and it seems to be more reliable.
They allow free web acces at:
I just looked on kbb.com, and with the default options and the mileage you
describe, the value - Private Party - is over $24,000. You need to do more
research. Others have suggested a Carfax Report, I agree that this is a
must. Generally, I think that a carfax report is not very useful because it
will only tell you stuff that somebody has bothered to enter into the
system, and it fhe sales price is properly in line with the values, then
people can withhold information that would be useful to know, but when the
price is so far askew from the value, then something must have happened that
would be difficult to hold back.
Given the pricing you are telling us, the car may have a salvage title, this
means the car has been wrecked - or otherwise destroyed - and rebuilt. The
simple answer is that the 1 and the 2 are next to each other on the
keyboard, and that 14k is really meant to be 24k, at which point the price
is about right.
That's odd. I just went there myself and got $21,090. And that's
choosing excellent condition which is rarely the case with a car with
60K miles. In good condition, kbb.com says it's $19,675. I'm not
disagreeing that the deal is too good to be true, but it's not as good
as some are saying. The $23k+ *wholesale* that someone else posted is
I used the wrong mileage when I checked.
When I corrected the mileage, I got the same $19k figure he got for Good
condition. I can't imagine that having double the expected mileage can
result in maintaining Excellent condition, so I only looked at the Good
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