I'll need to also do this on a Silverado.
I was told that it's ok to literally have the shoe lining "slightly drag" on the drum rather than having a .76mm gap between the lining and the drum. A guy told me to spin the drum (and adjust slowly) until the slight drag occurs and then stop. He said then it's ok to drive and one will smell burning for just a very short period of time and then the burning will go away and the car will be fine. He said you're initially driving with "friction" that works its way out after a very short period of time. He worked in a shop where they did it that way.
Questions:
- If you overtighten the adjusting screw and the drums cannot spin around, is there a release mechanism on the screw which allows you to turn the screw counter clockwise again? I would think that initially the screw would need to be "loosend" (turned in opposite direction) to account for the thicker lining being installed? That initial "loosening" would require the star adjuster to be moved counter-clockwise (which I understand they can only go clockwise and then click).
- Other than an initial loss of a microscopic portion of the lining (by having it slightly drag on the drum) with the initial adjustment, is this good practice -or- should there be NO "drag" from lining to drum when putting the drum on?
- If the parking brake is "self-adjusting", do they need to be initially adjusted manually to create "more" slack?
thanks and sorry for all the questions. Maybe I'm making this tougher than it really is.