1. Home
  2. Classic Cars - UK
  3. Fuel and Oil
  4. Page 2

Fuel and Oil

Try to find out what the previous owner was using. If he was using the recommended straight SAE 30 then going up to a 20/50 will probably produce leaks. However, after an engine rebuild using 20/50 will be OK. The rear, rope, oil seal is notorious for leaking oil and the story goes that they dripped oil at the Abingdon factory floor while awaiting despatch. Definitely stay away from synthetic oil.

Petrol - Use the lowest grade you can get. When these cars came out Britain was still on 80 pool petrol. Higher grades will possibly cause greater heat and the risk of burning a valve or piston. Adding paraffin/kerosene will also help in dropping the octane level. Half a litre to a tank of fuel will make no difference to starting, etc.

I use my MG YB pretty regularly - that's the same XPAG engine as the TD, but single carb, and have had no valve recession problems and we've been totally lead free for nearly ten years.

Reply to
cornelp
Loading thread data ...

Yes, if you can find a good use for the other 4 litres of thinners, I reckon that's the way to go. You'll need jet gland/gasket sets for the carbs as well. Burlen are the people who stock all the SU stuff these days - they've got a website whose address escapes me at the moment, but Google will know.. I think they also do SU manuals which are handy because SU's need setting up properly.

Ron Robinson

Reply to
R.N. Robinson

"R.N. Robinson" realised it was Tue, 2 Nov 2004 20:47:46 -0000 and decided it was time to write:

And they're good. I called for some replacement float chamber to carb grommets that keep tearing on my TR and had them within a week. Not particulalry cheap, but efficient and friendly service.

formatting link

If they're not old and tired, SU's need very little setting up IMHO. Balancing (if there's more than one) and setting the mixture is all that should be needed and detailed info for doing that is freely available on the Wild Wild Web.

Reply to
Yippee

Not so.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Rope seal never leaked on my xpags --- everthing else did, rocker cover, side plate (like the rocker cover not a good design design) , timing chain case

Reply to
awm

ISTR:

2* 91-93 3* 94-96 4* 97-99 5* 100-101

Not absolutely sure though.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Warren

This might be useful:

formatting link
and this too:

formatting link

Reply to
Martyn Moore

Convert your old yellowing bulbs to halogen on the cheap

formatting link

Peter

Reply to
Peter Chadbund

formatting link

Reply to
Hamish

In article , Hamish writes

Eh??

AFAIK these are just normal halogen bulbs with a blue tint. They replace standard H4 halogens and are the same power (60/55W). I'd be very surprised if they provided more light than a standard H4 60/55, they just look a bit flash

They seem to have caught on around here with boy racers, to go with dustbin exhausts and blue underlighting. Note the blue tint (dichroic coating) also makes the filament run hotter so you get a shorter bulb life :-(

Xenon bulbs of course do give increased light output - Osram do a xenon H4

HTH

Reply to
Ben Mack

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.