Sounds like a tough one, does the car have twilight
[ zone ] headlights that stay on after car is turned off,
or other features like autotronic dimming. Are you sure only one side
lights, or does one side glow brightly, and other side barely glows ? I
had a nasty problem with my 81 El Camino that turned out to be a shorted
marker light socket. Found problem when I cut wires in disgust to make,
still another, test light. If I hadn't lost my patience, I may * never *
have found problem.
Could also be funky directional switch, but even the
worst ones going shut off with key. I hope it's not the printed circut !
Try turning the hazard switch on and then off. It could be stuck in
between. If this doesn't work, replace the hazard/turn flasher module (GM #
25684395 , and about $31), and if that doesn't work, need a new switch.
* Nothing * short of replacing gaskets will do any good.
Smear anything you want on the outside, the inside leak will ruin your
engine. As for pour it in radiator sealer,
it won't congeal [ sp ? ] in the oil rich atsmosphere of the manifold
valley. Change gaskets, post back if you want helpful advice on * that *
fun job. Change oil, use an engine flush [ Gumout makes an excellent one ]
change oil again. Antifreeze forms some awful sludge that will shorten your
engine's life. Might want to consider a
better manifold to justify the labor, or stuff up the heat crossover with
aluminum foil for better highway performance. Label hoses / wires, and
photograph before dissassembly. I'd rather pay for [ one way or the
other ] an intake R + R, than an engine R + R.
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You seem to be the master of understatement <sad grin>. I've changed on a
'94 Astro, and it isn't fun, but it can be done. Needless to say, you've
got to pull the engine cover and do some of the work from inside, and some
from the outside. I managed it without a helper, but if you've got one it
might smooth things out a bit.
Hang in there,
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Located in so. California, near San Bernardino. The front end is
damaged and the truck will run; however it cannot be driven,
454 bb with a 400 turbo trans. the engine has maybe 20,000 miles on a
rebuilld. this engine is premium. doug thorley headers 3" dual
Stainless 304 exaust, stock intake HEI, and rv cam, when I rebuilt
the engine I installed 1968 bb closed chambered iron heads. complete
w/ SS valves, If your looking for a 454 this is the running engine
for you. Its complete minus the radiator, which was damaged call
(909) 556-8129 or email: email@example.com
92 Astro, 4.3, 4 speed overdrive
How does the torque convertor get fluid? Is it only when you fill it
when you have it out, or is it getting fluid transfer when the vehicle
is running. Am replacing a convertor and want to be sure I have it
Your replacing a torque converter and do not know it gets it's fluid from
the trans pump?
But more important, how did the original fail, if it did?
And when they do little pieces of fractured metal gets recirculated
throughout the trans, by this pump, necessitating a complete rebuild.
Being that engine coolant is a mixture of water and antifreeze. I
suppose it is normal for some to evaporate off even when you have the
cap on the reservoir tank fully closed (it evaporate through some
small opening in the cap). My only concern is what is considered
normal evaporation versus coolant loss due to some other underlying
conditions in the car. Last time I fill up that reservoir tank (the
one hooked up to the rad by a small hose) was back in February. Well
last weekend (end of June) when I checked, the tank is completely
emptied on cold engine. I have refilled it with a mixture of
Dexcool/Water and now keep a close eye on it. What is your experience
with coolant evaporation. When do you draw the line between what is
normal evaporation versus "something is wrong!!"??
No, a correct cooling system is completely sealed except for the overflow
reservoir. With a hot engine, some coolant should flow into the reservoir, and
then when it cools, it should be sucked back into the radiator. If my car lost
one cup per month, I would be looking for the problem. There is no normal
evaporation from such a closed system. The most normal way it is lost is with
an over-pressure release, like from a radiator cap. Also, you could have lost
coolant within the engine, but this leads to allegations about intake
On my 2001 Malibu, when new, a perfectly cool engine (overnight)
would leave the coolant right at the Full mark, so just fine and
After one and half years, this was no longer the case.
I told the dealer and they checked for leaks (none, they said)
and told me that "some" that evaporate, more so with the pink
than with the earlier green.
But the temperature needle was getting up higher than when new
(never above the center mark).
After two and half years, overnight, the coolant level had dipped
even lower. Curiously, though, when I took it to the dealer
for an oil change (two blocks away) and I showed it to him,
the level was already at the Full mark...
After a later overnight check, I found that even just a little
bit of driving would raise it.
So I got a can of premixed PetroCanada coolant (adheres to GM
standards such and such), and, while completely cool, added
just enough to bring it again to the Full mark.
It took maybe only about as much as one and a half cups of coffee.
Result: the temperature needle no longer goes much above the
center mark, and now, when fully cooled, the coolant is AT
the Full mark.
So, 2 1/2 years caused a loss like that.
Is that too much? The answer is I don't know.
But those are my numbers, anyway...
93 Chevy 1/2 ton WT with 4.3 V6, automatic. 81K miles. excellent
condition and maintenance.
I know it's never going to be a tire smoker, but I owned a similar
truck years ago (recently bought this one) with a lot more miles that
Truck runs nice and smooth. Internally, engine is in good condition.
I had my reliable independent mechanic
try to fix the driveability problem to no avail. So far...new plugs,
cap and wires, everything checks to specs on diagnostic machinery.
FI serviced, engine de-carboned (apparently some old GM TSB).
New fuel filter. Has new K&N air filter.
Truck is still a dog on the freeway, especially with the AC on. In
fact, it is so gutless I am afraid to pass anybody if it requires me
to go more than 70MPH. It also has what I consider poor throttle
response off idle. If I drive it like I stole it it's OK but at low
throttle it stumbles. At full throttle it seems to run fine all the
way up through the gears. In normal driving it sort of feels like the
timing is not correct, especially at higher RPMs. With the AC on it
seems to lose all desire to pull. The slightest incline will cause it
to slow down dramatically and start hunting for another gear.
Any ideas? I hate to take it to a dealer or another mechanic but I'm
close to doing so.
Well being a 93 that rules out a flat cam.
It should have a roller cam.
I would look at the exhaust system and the fuel system.
Catalytic converter might be getting plugged up.
Injectors might not be up to par.
These engines are fuel pressure sensitive.
Under 12 lbs and they will have minor drivability problems.
You know that little thing you can buy from the hardware store which
allows you to siphon a small amount of coolant (antifreeze/water) from
the rad and the needles shows you how cold a temperature is before the
coolant will freeze? CAn this device enable you to know the
water/antifreeze mixture in your RAD?? Last time I read the package
label at the hardware store, it doesn't seem to show this.
After couple of water/antifreeze refill to top up the reservoir tank,
I think that I no longer know the true percentage water/antifreeze
anymore in my cars rad. So I am looking for a way of figuring this
out. Will this device enable you to read off the water/antifreeze
mixture percentage? Or are there other devices made specifically for
On 30 Jun 2003 10:53:31 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (SN) wrote:
I believe the Prestone Anti Freeze Tester available in most US auto
parts stores does have the mixture percentage as well as the amount
of protection provided.
From my dealer rep... the same tester is used for both dex-cool and
Are you trying to make a distinction between water/antifreeze and
antifreeze/water? The little coolant tester simply measures specific gravity,
and ideally the 50%-50% mixture is the best protection. The readings are
similar for ordinary coolant or Dex-Cool.
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