Exactly. Thank you for your understanding. I will not pay GM for this.
They never informed us that there was such a hazard built into the stereo
that we paid for, nor did they provide the theft code. Yet, they will
neither provide the info needed to undo this, nor provide the service to
undo it without a ridiculous charge. No way am I ever giving GM any
money. Of course, my parents will continue to buy GM cars as they always
have, but that's their decision.
Additionally, despite having an EE degree, 1.5 years of experience
designing semiconductors, great references and a 3.6 GPA coming out of
school three years ago, I've been looking for work for the last eighteen
months, unsuccessfully. So my time isn't worth a whole lot right now
anyway, and a little project like this to take my mind off the depressing
reality of the current job market is just fine. Of course, I don't count
in the "unemployment" statistics, because like so many others, my
unemployment benefits ran out a long time ago and you aren't counted as
unemployed after that, despite the continuing lack of a job...but I
I like soldering. I like desoldering. I like programming chips. The
mechanical aspects of removing the stereo from the car are frustrating,
but once I get to the electronic technician stuff, that will be fun.
Finally, I will buy a new stereo and install it, before I will consider
giving GM any money. So, figuring out how to uninstall the stereo is a
necessary step, whether I manage to hack the current stereo back into
operation, or junk it and replace it with something else.
A friend will help you move. A real friend will help you move a body.
You make a very good point! Maybe I am a little unclear about this whole
thing.... Is it possible that all you need to do is enter a code to unlock
it? Seems to me they would provide that as a Customer Service after you
proved ownership. Furthermore, what does LOC stand for? Could it be an
Acronym for Launch Operations Center? One suggestion is find the model and
contact the manufacturer and ask them for advice. Keep posting in here and
other Newsgroups.... Don't give up!
BTW I used to own a '92 Delta 88 and never had that problem.... Worse thing
that ever happened to me was that I got that "Clean Key" Message and you
would have to wait 3 minutes or so before the car would start. I now own a
'91 Regency 98 but would be more than happy to to some research on this for
On Tue, 24 Jun 2003 21:59:16 -0500, email@example.com (Jeff Walther) wrote:
You brought back the 1970's for me. When the Viet Nam war and the
airospace industries declined. (For good reasons)
What do you do if they are surface mounted technology chips? Or propriety
chips with secret markings?
And then realize that you have waisted all your time.
Now here you have solved your problem already. Life is full of learning
experiences. Whether it be auto repair, or unemployment. You will learn
from it all.
PS: I read in the NY Times last month that BMW is employing technicians at
their dealerships and paying them >$50,000 to start. And have their
own training program. Unbelievable!
Simple, the electronics in the unit were 'confused' due to some glitch.
Anyone with some real experience at the service end of consumer electronics
can attest to how common this type of failure really is and that a full
reboot/reset many times clears the problem.
Obviously your EE degree training did not give you any real world practical
knowledge from the repair standpoint.
When I worked at a consumer electronics repair shop, around 25% of the
failures we would see were due to random electronics confusion problems.
Usually some bit would get corrupted in the eeprom, sometimes the
micro/system control would get confused due to some bad data getting to it,
almost all problems were related to quick brown out conditions at just the
Same thing happened to me. Never locked it, had it off battery for long
periods of time - but one time it locked on me. I just assumed my kids did
Here is what happened though, I had my old cassette player still so I
put it back in, threw the locked one in the trunk - figured I would get it
unlocked from the dealer one day or buy another factory cd.
Well, several months later (and still broke enough to get it fixed)
winter ended, since I work on Computers, I know that most bios (don't ask if
you don't know) memory can be reset just by unplugging the battery - or if
you are a video gameplayer, ask yourself, what happens to your saved games
if you leave an old video game cartridge with built in ram laying around for
You already know that answer.....
Bingo! I put it in and the "loc" was gone!
Today, I made a really tight (almost 90degree turn, steering-wheel turned
all the way left) and fairly fast left-turn onto a parking lot to avoid
incoming traffic. After that the car makes a loud annoying sound everytime
I turn the steering wheel (left or right), loud enough that other people
outside will turn at look. I can't really describe the sound, it certainly
is low pitch, almost like someone rubbing to piece of wood together, and it
doesn't sound like metals are rubbing each other. So anyway, after turning
the wheel for a while it wouldn't stop, so I turned off the engine and wait
a few minutes. After a couple minutes I turn the car on again, and the
noise seemed to subside, to almost unnoticeable, but not quite disappeared
yet. So it seems there is still some noise whenever I turn the steering
wheel now. What could be the problem and how expensive am I looking to
spend? I can think of a few things but I could be wrong. Could it be
steering pump is almost gone? could it be rack and pinion? or perhaps
balljoint? I hope to hear some opinion and perhaps a method to track down
where the noise come from.
Car Stats: 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 2.8L V6 173 engine, FWD,
automatic, AC. has 169500km on it.
Recent service: Transmission oil change about 5000km ago. Engine oil
about 500km ago. Putted in a new alternator in April (did it myself). Car
drives good otherwise.
What kind of car ? Front wheel drive ? Rear wheel drive ? 4 x 4 ? All
three use different suspensions.
My knowledge stops at rear wheel drive, my guess is
suspect motor mounts, a wimpy mount might have caused
the engine to move a bit, which affects everything, but looks fine upon
casual examination. Put a jack under engine, and verify mounts are good. A
transmission mount could do the same thing. As for front wheel drives,
4X 4 's and other non rear wheel drives, there are posters on this group who
should have an angle as I have no knowledge in this area.
yeah... I unscrew the cap and looked at the tip of the thin stick and see
that there is liquid on it, according to what I was told
if you see there are some liquid on the tip it means its ok. Although i
wonder if it is ok to fill the reservoir all the way to the top??
By the way, the noise I was trying to describe sounds like the hum from
movies that has submarines in it. Almost every movie
I see which has submarine, they will play this noise. Can't describe it but
next time you watch tv show you will know what I mean.
I fill up the steering fluid the other day, and it seems the noise is a less
now. Maybe it was the steering fluids
after all. Is it safe to leave it at that or should I take more
preventative action such as having the steering pump checked etc.
I was watching a police chase show on TV a few minutes ago. A cop was
chasing a '90 LeSabre at speeds approaching 120 MPH. Two questions:
1. Wouldn't this car have a fuel cutoff at around 109 MPH or were they not
implemented on the '86 to '91 LeSabre?
2. If no fuel cutoff, then what is the top speed of a stock LeSabre? I
assume you'd need to measure the speed externally since the speedo only
measures 85 MPH (unless you have the sport or digital cluster).
Just curious - I'm really bored right now. :)
My understanding is that pretty much all GM vehicles have had some kind of
speed limiter on them, except for some of the highest-performance vehicles
like the Corvette, Camaro and Firebird. Usually the speed limiter is set to
correspond to the speed rating of the tires, though it's sometimes less when
the vehicle is available with multiple speed-ratings of tires and the
limiter is all the same.
The exact speed would vary depending on the vehicle. However, I think that
at those speeds, the analog speedometer display tends to be inaccurate..
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from firstname.lastname@example.org
The speed limiter on pre-'85 LeSabres was the boxy shape pushing
through air. :-) Most likely the carb jetting for emissions/economy in the
V-8s. My dad's '61 LeSabre had a limiter .. . a speed "buzzer" that could
be preset for any speed. Scared the begeezers out of me the first time I
heard it .. . thought I had dropped a tailpipe .. . sounded like metal
dragging over concrete. That car had all the bells, whistles and buzzers
(plus a reflecting mirror for the speedo). ..
Lesabres are pretty quick cars. The ones I've owned (one 89 and two 90s) all
cut off at around195kph (which is what, about 115 mph?), and at that speed,
the car is panting pretty heavily (We have an old airfield near here that
you can take your car out and rip'her down to play at stupid speeds without
endangering anyone other then yourself :) ).....
I would think that even without the cutoff, the car wouldn't hit more then
maybe 130mph, and then only if you had it floored for 5 minutes, going down
hill, with a strong tail wind...... :) Also, you'd be running close to the
rev-limiter at that speed.
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