Thanks Dan ... I was also thinking along the same lines, leakage into the engine
combustion chambers ... but I always thought that would lead to visible "smoke"
exhaust ... we're not seeing any of that either.
Having said that, do you still think most likely it's leaking inside the engine?
it must be if there's no other (outward) sign of loss, huh?
Thanks ... Phil
Could be an internal leak from worn Intake manifold gaskets. or it could
be an external leak. Even en external leak cold be burned off on the hot
engine and you wouldn't notice it.
If you have a coolant level sensor it could have an air bubble traped
around the sensor. Try tapping around its location. Sometimes just the
coolant splashing around the bottle is enough to trip the light. Kind of
a common problem.
1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE
Checked the oil and nothing obvious there. Can't see anything externally, and
even if it
burned right off, I'd think I would smell the coolant, which I don't.
Took another look at the overflow tank and it's well within the hot / cold lines
don't think the level is actually low. Leading me to suspect a faulty sensor
... but ...
do you have any idea where the sensor actually is located?
Thanks yet again ... Phil
email@example.com (Harry Face) wrote:
I missed the original message but had the same problem. Losing
coolant slowly and didn't know where it went. This on a Buick Lesabre
'93, 3.8 engine.
We changed the waterpump which definitely was showing leakage at the
bearing hole, but still lost coolant. Then when the alternator went
bad, we spotted a damp spot behind it and discovered the fitting for
the very small coolant hose behind the alternator was cracked and
leaking where it couldn't be seen.
The fitting broke when we tried to remove the hose and the threaded
plastic part stayed in the hole.
We didn't have an 'easy out' big enough, but purchased a "Heater hose
coupler remover" #62200 by Lisle
Unfortunately that didn't work either since there was lots of
corrosion in the thread area and it just slipped and made the hole
bigger. Anyway it sorta proves that this is a common problem in GM
Mysterious loss of coolant in GM cars can be directly attributed to
lousy engineering. The replacement fitting (metal) costs $13.00 for a
problem that GM caused by putting a cheap plastic fitting into an
What we finally did was get an old wood spade drill bit that measured
3/4" and heated it red hot. then inserted it in the hole where it
melted a slot, top and bottom in the broken plastic piece right down
to the top of the threads. With the piece cut in two, we were able to
fish and hook it out without dropping it into the engine.
On Thu, 26 Jun 2003 00:44:30 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Phil) wrote:
I bet it will soon have the leaking intake manifold gasket. I replaced the
water pump on a 1999 Olds (seeping through the lower weephole) and about a
month later, he thought I did the water pump job wrong because it was still
"missing" coolant. Turns out it was going into the crankcase. Pay
attention to the coolant and it may save you a costly engine replacement in
I can't seem to figure out which part (alternator, a/c compressor, p/s pump)
that I'm supposed to loosen to change the serpinetine belt for my car. If
anyone has any previous experience in changing a serpinetine belt on this
particular car, I would greatly appreciate any assisstance.
Thanks in advance.
If it's like Momma's 91Brougham 5.7 litre there is a tensioner pulley
that swings up or down and then you slip the belt off. Look for a small
pulley with either a 18 mm nut on it or a square hole for a 3/8 or 1/2 '
drive ratchet to fit into.
1991 Pontiac Bonneville LE
What particular car are you speaking of? I know my 98 GM pickup has a
tensioner pully that you slip a 3/8" ratchet head into and turn CClockwise
about a quarter to third of a turn with one hand, and use the other to slip
the belt off, then CAREFULLY release tension on pully. To replace reverse
the procedure, but you will need to turn lots more than what you needed to
remove the belt usually. Course not knowing what partiucular car you are
speaking of i am just making a wild ass guess.
I finally got to the part that I supposed to lift up using a 1/2 inch
ratchet and was able to lift up the pulley so I could remove the belt and I
have successfully replaced the belt. Once again, thanks to everybody who
replied to my message and I appreciate you for your help.
the 4.9L ??? there's a spring loaded tensioner. pay close attention
tot he water pump pulley bolts. they're famous for cracking the
pulleys around the bolt holes on these, and the pulley usually gives
out shortly after the new belt goes on.
I seem to to recall a similar post a while back about On-Star doing things
that just aren't kosher. The simple answer is that although the On-Star
hardware is capable of doing this, the software doesn't allow it. There is
simply too much liability involved. On-Star doesn't "phone home" regardless
of whether or not you are a subscriber unless the airbags deploy or, in some
configurations, a "near deployment" event occurs.
I need some help here. I was trying to change the brakes on my 2000 Grand Prix
but couldn't get the rotor off to get it turned. I got the pads out but the
rotor was still held in place by the outer frame of the brake caliper and the
bolts holding that one were very tight so I didn't want to force anything. How
exactly do I get the rotor off? Thanks...
You do have to remove that "outer frame" in order to get
the rotor off. No way around it. The two bolts are very
tight (they are loctited from the factory), but they will come
off. I use a 30 inch swing handle with a good quality socket
and they will come off.
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