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Olympic A/T Rock Slider Rear Bumper & Other Questions

All on a 98 TJ:

I'm considering buying an A/T Rock Slider Rear Bumper by Olympic. I've heard good things from the group about it, but just wanted to make sure of one thing, .. a stock spare-tire will fit with no problem with this bumper on, correct?

Also I thought I read somewhere where this bumper doesn't mount directly to the frame, and that you can't get pulled out by it. . Also correct?

I'm doing some maintenance and upgrades all at once here.. and was wondering if anyone had any $.02 to add.. hints, tricks, etc. .

I'm going to be installing a Borla Header to replace my cracked stock manifold. Seems pretty straightforward, any hints?

I also bought a seal-kit for the output shaft on my steering-box, as it's been leaking for a couple months, and is getting steadily worse. I thought I read a post on here a while back that it was a fairly simple job, with the worst of it being getting the pitman arm off..

My front Diff. has a small leak which I was told is probably my pinion-seal. Looking at the FSM, it seems fairly easy..It doesn't appear there are any other seals I'll need to buy, do I just buy the pinion-seal, and that is enough?

Besides these, I'm going to replace my serpentine belt as well as my steering damper.

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give!

-Dave McGlynn

Reply to
Dave
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Pinion seal $0.02: It is possible to damage the pinion bearings if you don't use a proper puller to take the pinion yoke off the pinion shaft. Don't say I didn't warn you. Follow the instructions in the FSM exactly to reassemble the pinion yoke to the shaft, or you will not restore the bearing preload properly. Does it recommend a new crush sleeve? If so, better get one. Any play in the pinion shaft at present?

Steering output shaft seal $0.02: Any play in the shaft?

Earle

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Reply to
Earle Horton

I'll check the steering output shaft for play, thanks Earle.

I'm thinking I might leave the pinion seal for a professional seeing all the "special tools" they have pictured in the FSM.. I think there's a total of 5.. :)

Reply to
Dave

So.. I installed my header last night.. And I'm curious if anyone else had this similar problem:

I had to tie the exhaust pipe leading to the cat. converter away from the header, because otherwise, the header wouldn't sit flush on the head. After torquing all the bolts on the manifolds, I had to pull my exhaust about an inch and a half and bolt it together. There's quite a side load pulling on that header at this point. Is this normal? Is there an adjustment further back in the exhaust system to allow the front to have a little more play?

I pulled and shoved and eventually got it to move the distance that I needed to get it to bolt up, but I'm not sure if it's "healthy" to have that much of a sideways pulling force on the header.

My previous manifold was cracked at a weld point, and I'm wondering now if it was because there was a bit of a side-load on that as well?

I also noticed that it appears that my rear-main seal is now leaking again, after replacing it a year ago. I'm planning on replacing my PCV valve, as I understand the crankcase pressure can cause a leak, .. but if in fact this is the problem, and I replace the valve, will the leak stop? Or, do I need to pull the trans and replace the seal again.. ?

I still haven't bought it, .. I was hoping someone could respond, . . Is there any problem with the Olympic A/T Rock Slider Rear Bumper and a stock spare tire? Any comments on this bumper?

Dave wrote:

Reply to
Dave

I wanted to mention that I was EXTREMELY satisfied with my Jegs.com order, in case anyone is looking to get a header for a 4.0.

I paid $374.98, free shipping. I ordered mine on Thursday at noon, and I had it Friday at 11am (I live only one state over from them though, that helps :)

Good price though. Just wanted to share...

Dave wrote:

Reply to
Dave

The factory hangers are not 'adjustable' you will have to make then adjustable by altering or replacing the hangers.

If you leave that much torque on the system something will break and most likely it will be the part that is the most expensive and hardest to get to.

Reply to
billy ray

I think I would be checking out the engine and tranny mounts out. If you have a bad one, the engine could be sitting on an angle. When our drivers side one went, the engine came over to the drivers side far enough to tag the front driveshaft.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Umm didn't you mention it didn't fit? ;-)

Mike

Dave wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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