hi i own 1988 300e with 110miles on it everything is in grate shape
except headgasket but that dont bother me what bothers me is i have to
clean ma spark plugs every 3 to 5 months they get oily and corosion
then i get problems like hesitation from start lil rough indling but
hard to notice so i take them out clean and its like new car its
indling like the car is not even on and it goes like it got another
15hp boost when i open the cap on the egnine to put some oil i get
steam coming out lil bit not alot no blue smoke coming from exaust cold
or warm full throttle or idling so i think that only ma seals are worn
what u guys think the car is in very good shape
Well, 110.000 miles is not a whole lot... so valve seals may just do it.
You will know once you get to it... if you find the valve stem loose... you
will have to do the whole job.
So a $500 job may turn into a $1500 job... If you are very good at head
removal and installtion job, you can take it off and send it off to a
machine shop... won't cost you much
You have to decide... are you the original owner? Did you or previous owner
change oil regularly? Is the odometer correct? Seems kinda low for 88. If
everything is no, then whole job is necessary.
Tiger, so are you saying that one can judge whether or not the valve stems
need replacing (rather than just the seals) by 'wiggling' the stems? That
would certainly be great..... my 300E has 145k miles, the plugs stay oily
HC emission test show them to be just above acceptable limits, there are
no visible oil leaks, no blue smoke etc, car burns about 1qut in 3000 miles
BUT burns a lot more when driving high speed on the freeway for prolonged
periods of time.
You can replace just the valve seals but it'll get you at best, a few monthes
respite fropm the blue haze. Find a rebuildable head, cheap, git 'R redone
properly, then install it yourself one weekend. If you can't find
help to put a German car back together in KW you're just not trying. (I
went to school there too.)
Need Mercedes parts ? - http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
Richard Sexton <See http://rs79.vrx.net for address> wrote:
here is where I become not sure what to do. What you say is often pointed
out - however - the local dealership insists that the seals is all that is
often needed (at around 200k km) ..... in view that a dealer typically wants
to do more rather than less..... well it makes it kind of believable.
I addition, as I pointed out initially, I don't have blue smoke.... at least
not as far as that I can see. Like I said, around town driving I need maybe
a touch more than a liter between fills .... drive several hundred or so km
at over 100km/hr I need a liter after.
..... so, again, what to do?
the valve guides can be checked for excessive wear before the seals are
replaced . If excessive play exists then a head overhaul should be
carried out as the new seals would prematurely wear. The material used
to manufacture the guides was changed around 1991 due to premature
wear. Earlier vehicles fitted 102 and 103 engines would wear guides
around 100 000 miles while the later facelift models with modified
valve guides would only require seals replaced at 100- 120,000 miles
bingo, many thanks. Now I understand as well the dealer 'advisor' take
seems that at 250k km I'm wayyyyy overdue for replacement of, apparently,
the valve guies considering it's a '98 300e
Like Richard said...once you take out the seal, you can inspect the
clearance between the valve guide and the valve stem... sometime the valve
stem is loose and can be removed by your own finger.
As for few months on the valve seals... I am not so sure... but he is
basically saying it is a bandaid job where it definitely will not last 3
years. You may or you may not luck out. (But you can try)
If you want something that last forever, valve job is the only way to go.
Now back to you... you said 1 qt per 3000 miles? That is normal... That
should not oil out your plug... maybe you have a problem with your PVC
system or too much fuel is burnt... but I highly doubt it is your valve
Many thanks for the reply!! I think this is of interest to quite a few
of us. good point re PVC and I will check it. Maybe I was being a bit
optimistic re oil usage.... maybe more like 2 or 3 liters.
Richard Sexton <See http://rs79.vrx.net for address> wrote:
So, as the bard would say, here's the rub. As you know, the car needs
to pass emission tests every 2 years. Lat time is was exactly on the max
allowed HC emission of 60ppm .... after I got the cat 'red hot' and put
new plugs in.
I imagine it's going to get worse.... so it's not poluting significantly
in view that some other cars are allowed double or more of these emissions and
still fall within allowed limits.... harumph.
the car was owned by 65 yer old grandpa very ritch he is the original
owner and has all the original paper work miles are original oil was
changed regulary it was taken to the shop every time it was time to
change oil but oil was bad if u ask me penzoil 10-30 juck when i bought
it oil pressure would go to 0.5 in the summer so i drained the oil got
mobil-1 and on top of that got 1 castrol systetic bottle the oil
pressure went up to 1.3 in the summer when driven for long time so i
fix that my father has been mechanic for 30 years he did vavle job by
him selfe on mazda mpv he check ma car and he said that my engine is in
grate shape that i don't have to wory obout valves only thing is seals
are are obout 45% worn out and its making plugs oily lil bit he said he
knows when valves are bad and mine aren't some one said i have to
rebuil my head why when its in good shape i went and talk to another
mechanic he said im 100% sure its seals cant be ur valves seals gave
out bc of heat and oil eating it
The only tool your dad will need is a special spring compressor to do it .
but before you buy it... see if he has something similar to it that he can
get by... you can see the tool on internet... sold by lots of specialty
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