can a 215/45R17 be used to replace a 225/65-17 tire

My 95 is about to click over 200,000 km.

I have had the rear struts done, the starter, two injectors, the brakes all around and various other things.

Recently, I had the F-Pipe changed with an all stainless steel unit for a cost of $250 and labour of $160. I bought the pipe over the internet.

In case anyone says that $160 for labour is too much, the mechanic that did it for me at his house tooks 3 hours to do the job. He didn't break anything, not a single stud or nut or bolt, and both O2 sensors also came out and went back in with no problems, not even the need to cut the wires and do the job the easy way. It was the original F-pipe on the car, I had had the Flex joint replaced/welded a new one in about 4 years ago for $500.

Considering the dealer quoted me $1200 for an F-pipe, I am ahead on the game. I seem to have more go with the less restricted pipes.

rtt

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Sounds like the service tech is working on commission. If the coolant has been checked or changed when required, and the water pump is not making any noise or leaking, why replace it? I have never had any water pump or cooling problems on my 95 SE (purchased May 94) in Chicago area.

As far as the timing chain (vs. belt), if it was a belt, your owner's manual would say when it needed to be changed. But if it is the same motor we have in the states, there is no scheduled replacement of the timing "chain".

I had a slow leak in a centerline rim , and finally got tired of the problem,,,, took the car to the tire store, and the RIM was leaking..... who knows how old the rims were, but centerline doesn't make that style anymore.

they filled it with fix-a-flat sealer, aired it up, and put it on the spin balancer for a couple cycles..... wheel back on car, and 1,000 miles later, its holding fine

I now have a Mercury Cougar, and it has a tire with a slow leak, guess what tire store I am fix> First, make sure the valve is not leaking.

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I believe it's time to replace my 94 GXE's front struts after 114k miles. (non-sonar) What is a good brand/type to use if not the Nissan factory struts? I don't want a "performance" ride (i.e. stiff or rough), I just want like factory or maybe a slight bit firmer.

Chris

90 & 94 GXE's

Yes, it was pretty much the same. My only question is what is the lower glove box finisher? I have no cover underneath the glove box - I have the HVAC stuff, blower motor, some insulated wiring in plain view. Am I missing the cover or are the instruction generic for different years, models?

Otherwise, my installation went pretty smoothly. Removed the glove box and filter cover and to my surprise there were no factory installed filters - just lots of dried leaves, pieces of branches, etc. Actually, the discount coupon for 10% off the incabin filter I got from my Infiniti dealer mentioned that the filter is optional on 99-01 models and standard on 02-05, so go figure. Anyway, I cleaned the leaves (quite a hassle without a special vacuum), installed the filters, and put the glove box back. HVAC seems to be working fine - I am keeping my fingers crossed.

Hi,

Any idea what would cause an oxygen sensor error (code 33) on a 93 max GXE, just one year after the same sensor was replaced? The current error code and symptoms are identical to what it was doing before I replaced it last year...It starts OK when you turn the key, but when driving it stumbles badly on acceleration for several seconds and then suddenly kicks-in and accelerates normally. Then, when you come to a stop and then start again, it does the same thing over again.

It ran fine for several months after I had replaced the O2 sensor last year, but now the problem has returned. It started out intermittent, but has suddenly become almost constant again (just like last time). Could this possibly be due to using regular octane gasoline? We have had the car for about a year and a half and have been using regular the whole time. The manual seems to indicate that regular is OK for this engine (it's the SOHC model). Or, could it be from getting splashed with all the water on the streets due to all the snow melting and making big puddles? Not sure if this is relevant, but the car has some intermittent electrical issues: on very rare occasions, the power locks and power windows don't work, but then a bit later they work OK.

Any ideas or help with determining the cause so that it won't happen again would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, David

Did you use a factory OEM part ?

If you didn't then I would start it that.

Yes, It was the OEM part (from local Nissan Dealer)

Thanks, David

I noticed this weekend that I have developed a small leak in the radiator. At the top, on the plastic part, to the left of the cap. I've tried stopping it with epoxy and will try "stop leak" today.

Can anyone recommend a good online place that I can buy a "guaranteed" replacement radiator? It doesn't have to be new. The car has 210K miles on it and it still runs like a champ, but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg for a radiator.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

I have a Maxima 1989 GXE with 220,000 Kms. Lately the electronic display dashboard has started to fail, specially on very cold days. I suspect a lose connection, but I am not really sure. Any suggestions?.

Gabe

ok , then then next thing I would check is if water/moisture has entered the connector

Hello, Thanks to all who responded to my "longevity" question.

I'm looking at a 98 GXE with 90000 miles, but it's a bit more than I want to spend ($8000 before any haggling).

A 95 model would be closer to my price range.

Assuming that I can find a 95 with *decent* milage, is there any reason NOT to get one?

What might the pros and cons of either model year be?

TIA

...

noneyabusiness wrote in news:jmqk41pvnkh9537pqqi5ccbvn471pvsdbr@

4ax.com:

The 97+ model had some structural changes made to the bumpers to make them stronger (see pics in the link below). This also made it a little heavier than the 95-96 Maxima. If you are buying one I would also consider an Infiniti I30 which is a rebadged Maxima.

The 95 has a cheesy rear bunmper that will sustain expensive damage from even a 5 mph bump. That was fixed in the 97+ Maximas.

Other than that, the 98s have minor cosmetic changes like: a digital odometer, mroe symmetrical gauges (fuel and temp face each other). Better designed cup holders etc.

If I had to choose bewteen a 98 eith 90K miles and a 95 with 90K miles, I would go for the 98 because it's simply younger, and since it has high miles from fewer years, that would suggest that it spent more of its time on the highway, and highway driving has less wear and tear on a car than city driving.

CD

I bought my 98 SE new but having another car and a truck it only has

11,600 miles as of today. But it's been a real dream to own and drive. Nissan had a recall on the Alternator dealer replaced it quickly at no charge. I also replaced the battery years ago. Besides this not a thing has ever gone wrong. I feel the 98s were the last real good Maximas since Nissan came under new ownership.

Good point...thanks.

Is there any reason to pay the premium for the upscale badging?

...

I believe you will find that by now there is no premium.