difficult to manually turn engine from long term storage

I'd like to ask whether anyone has

It's rusted up,-maybe the oil's sludgy too. Take it it's been left outside. Change the oil, take out the spark plugs and pour a teaspoon of penetrating oil and plus-gas into each cylinder. Leave a couple of days then start turning without the plugs in. Once it's eased up spin it on the starter a few times before putting the plugs back. DaveK.

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. I don't know plus-gas. Is there a brand you can indicate ? Does it cover the inside with a film or so ?

Can I understand none of the other equipment can have suffered damage ? The steering assistance pump could be fine, but can the airco pump become stuck as well ?

Does this mean there is damage or can your method prevent damage during start-up ? Could the cylinder walls be degraded or just sticky ? There could have been quite an amount of water inside. I did not realize it when I put the car away.

There are chances the piston rings were damaged before storage, so is honing and replacing the rings enough to give the engine a new life ? I can imagine losing compression when you hone an engine after this. The pistons should not have suffered from the corrosion ?

Sorry for all the extra questions, but as I said, I'd be willing to do more to have a better result. Just opening the engine is not that huge a job.

Thanks again,

Carl

Oops, fell for that didn't I. DaveK.

Whoa there. You don't know what "gas-plus" is and you think "opening the engine is not that huge a job?" Just spray some WD-40 or other oil in each cylinder and turn it over by hand and then with the starter. CAUTION: Disable the ignition before hitting the starter with the plugs out.

The guy's from Belgium if you have a glance at the headers. I imagine plus gas or something similar has a different name there.

Hi,

Thanks for your reply. It's true that I'm no professional, but I have managed some repairs. I can probably find it asking in any belgian automotive shop, and I will find out what it is for on usenet.

Thanks again.

Carl

"Doki" schreef in bericht news:uorub.2408$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfep4-glfd.server.ntli.net...

Sorry if I offended in any way. It's just that I opened and repaired engines before but never experienced this situation . The question is simply about what really happened to it and what I can expect from the engine after the advice you gave me. Are my questions ignorant ?

Thanks again.

Carl

hello again,

As I said in my first posting, the engine had been running from a wintercold start only for a minute or so before I let it sit for a year. I imagine there would have been some water left from the fuel, like also in the exhaust ? The rings could have been damaged from slightly overheating a couple of days before.

My real worry is how the engine will behave after just letting WD-40 do the work. Is there more damage or is it only sticky cylinder walls ?

Thanks again, also for your apologies.

Regards,

Carl

Yes. A winter-cold engine run only for a minute would form large amounts of condensation in the intake tract and, shortly after shutdown, in the combustion chambers. Next time, warm the engine up FULLY before long term storage shutdown, and oil the cylinders through the spark plug holes.

WD-40 will not do the work, whoever told you this is mistaken. WD-40 is a water displacer. It is a lousy rust penetrant. You need a good rust penetrant product.

DS

Quit over-thinking it and just DO it. Start it and see- if the WD40 worked, it will run fine and won't burn too much oil. If the cylinder walls were badly rusted and pitted, you'll find out soon enough and it won't be any worse off for trying.

Thanks Daniel. I imagine not too many engine reworkers would seek an alternative for drilling new cylinders and pistons. The engine was a dream before the problem started which made me just put the car away and forget about it, frustrated. I imagine not even a goodfrust penetrant product will bring back the original condition of the engine. And I imagine that the combustion chambers with closed intake valves would be better of but the valves and valve seats would be ruined.

Except maybe when I would ruin good pistons and more of the engine like the crankshaft and bearings, because of higher friction loads ? Rust particles won't do much good anywhere.

I agree that the water problem is something I should have thought of from the start.

Wouldn't a honing and new rings adress the problem in a more gentle way, if you are talking about "not burning too much oil" ?

Sincere thanks again,

Carl

If you're worried about that much rust, tear the thing down right now.

But seriously, if you put a new oil filter on it (and fresh oil) and fire it up, nothing that isn't already ruined will become ruined. If the bores are rusty enough to cause a problem, then you ALREADY need new pistons, so don't even worry about that. The oil filter will protect the bearings and crank.

Hi all,

it is true that I may be too worried to try and have it run.

Thanks all for your time and attention, I appreciate.

|Hi all, | |it is true that I may be too worried to try and have it run. | |Thanks all for your time and attention, I appreciate. | |

"Those loads would be momentary and probably within the design specs of any engine. Did anyone suggest a squirt of oil (Marvel Mystery Oil or light motor oil) in the spark plug holes before cranking? Rex in Fort Worth

No, but wasn't rust penetrant the first action to be undertaken ? It may be well to do that before firing up. Thanks !