Ping Comboverfish--A/C on Corolla Wagon, and horn...

I didn't know that vehicles were ID'ed by their window stickers :^]

Dual pressure switch.

Well, that's far and away the most likely cause of no compressor engagement.

Get favorable odds if you are going to bet on loose wire A/C failures in the future.

No problem.

You can have them convert to R134a as the refrigerant is less expensive than R-12, although the cost to retrofit will more than offset the first time savings. Future leaks will provide a "return on investment". Corollas of that era cool well after conversion - with all original components (except drier). A system flush aimed at oil removal followed by replacement with Poly Ester oil would be recommended.

There's no other correct way.

Whom ever you feel comfortable with. Ask friends and family.

Between $.01 and $infinity. I find that A/C repair costs rarely exceed three hours labor on those cars. The only really expensive part is the compressor. They are really cheap to keep cool.

Ok.

To me it suggests that there is a broken or corroded contact point inside the underhood fusebox. If you truly don't have power at any of the horn relay terminals, then you have found the place to start looking. The 15 A Horn/Hazard fuse powers two of those four terminals. It's literally within two inches of the relay. I'd look somewhere in those two inches. Unbolt the fuse box, turn it over as best as possible and remove the back cover. Follow the wires inside. Maybe test those terminals once more to make sure they really are dead before doing all of this. Maybe test the fuse once more.

Everything goes bad.

Nope, but I could fix it quickly.

They either weren't paid to complete the job or they are incompetent.

Listen, all y'all, it's a sabotage! Like that kind of sabotage?

Speaking of incompetent... Sears Automotive, that is.

Toyota MDT in MO

OK, my next visit, I'll check that fuse block wiring--certainly easier than trying to negotiate under the dash. But if the fuse block don't yield results, I guess the dash/horn switch would be the next effort.

Is the color coding for the wires going to the horn switch information that is readily available?

Btw, Sears got caught doing this shit in *multiple states*, NY and NJ for sure, and I think further west, mebbe CA. Amazingly, doesn't seem to have hurt their business, at least not for long, judging from the people I talk to who don't hesitate to bring their cars to Sears.

Thanks again for your great help. It was actually fun sleuthing the A/C problem, watching that center hub come on when I jumped the pressure switch. Almost felt like I knew what I was doing! :)

The fuse box / horn relay area is right at the center of the circuit. Test from there and you will find out the most the fastest.

Wiring diagrams are available as previously detailed in response to your last A/C thread. They may not indicate the color of the wires inside the fuse box, but they will show wiring colors for any connector to connector in the car. Looking into the fuse box and figuring out which wires are a continuation of the circuit in question is rather easy. Any given internal wire is almost always the same color as the rest of its circuit anyway. The only time the color is a nonfactor is in the case of metal buss strips used in the center of the box. You probably won't have to worry about that, and frankly shouldn't take the box *that* far apart because it won't go together easily. Again, you know exactly where the fuse and relay socket are. Just look "underneath" them from inside the box.

Toyota MDT in MO

So this is where you hide now...