blower motor stopped

How are the fuses? 240 fuses are known to corrode, it's one of the more irritating aspects of an otherwise great car.

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@d21g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

they looked fine, BUT I didn't check them out completely.

I did (and I just remembered this now) have a bit of a moisture in my door issue, so there could be that.

I'm too tired to check it now (and for the life of me I can't find my cover to show what one is what, etc..yes, I know it should be on all the time, but I kept knocking off, so I took it completely off to fix...only to forget to). But when I get a little more energy (or find the damn thing) I will check that.

thanks for the insight.

The other really annoying aspect of this otherwise great car is the labor for blower motor replacement. Praying for a corroded fuse. Oh, another comes to mind: the wiring harnesses on pre-'88 models had brittle insulation, causing bare wires to ground out. I don't know if this is a common factor in blower motor stops.

I checked the fuse today, and it's fine. continuity fine, corrosion no...

I don't want to take apart the dash again. But it sounds like I might have to sunday or monday.

Check the ground wiring and the switch, it's pretty easy to take the console cover off and get to the wiring.

A 240 blower motor replacement is no walk in the park, but after hearing all the horror stories, it wasn't as bad as I expected when I did it. There's a lot of parts to R&R but you don't need any special tools or difficult techniques, just some screwdrivers, a socket set, work light, and patience.

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...

the switch is new, and hte wire to it is new.

I just don't get why the ground (which was newly done) would go all the sudden.

I never want to replace the motor again. I wouldnt' wish that on my enemy.

I hope it's the ground. please....let it be the ground. I dread the idea of re-doing this (not only cost, but time)

replacing that motor was a bear.

My friend, who's a volvo nut, didn't suggest anything about the wiring harness (which I have).

Did you get stuck somewhere? The first one I did took about 4 hours, and there were no greasy yucky parts to deal with. Once you pull the dashboard (looks intimidating but it's easy) and center console everything is pretty much out in the open. It's a lot easier than changing a clutch, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and other major jobs where you have filthy and heavy parts, fluids, road grime, dirt and sand falling in your eyes, etc. It's helpful to have some ziplock baggies to sort and tag all the fasterners as you take them out. I've seen some guys do it with the dash in place, that doesn't save any time, I don't even know how they get into the blower housing with that method.

Now a job I wouldn't wish on anyone, try a headliner in a 700 sedan. I swear if I ever do that again, I'll have the windshield removed first.

The new motor could be defective, but that's unusual. What's left is the wiring. Check for voltage at the wires supplying power to the motor.

I took it apart without removing the instrument panel...but could not, for the life of me, put itb ack in. so I had to take apart more of the dash.

It was as simple as the switch plug not being in far enough.

One of the few times a loose connector has been a good thing!

Glad it was that easy for you.

Gary

Thanks. I timed it perfectly, as it's been super cold the last few days (barely above 25 in the mornings).