EGR VALVE!

Okay so I found that supposively the "egr" wire has a screw shoved in it, and at the dist cap where theres usually a thing there (checked my freinds mk2 out) is missing, would this cause the engine to not run properly, also there is a small hole drilled in the air box near the gas dis, someones obviously been playing with the car. Anyways the car starts runs for about a minute then slowly dies, woudl this be the problem, and if you try to go in gear underload forget it.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat
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The screw is shoved in the entrance that would normally go into where the dist cap is, but that part is missing.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

this URL is for a picture of the vacuum advance unit attached to the distributor.

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Is the screw in the the vacuum tube? It sounds like someone just eliminated the egr system and this probably is not the problem. Does the fuel pump in the gas tank run? Take the cap off and put your ear to the filler tube and have somebody turn the key to the run position. The power wire to that pump also supplies power to make your fuel gauge work.

Reply to
samstone

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Reply to
none2u

It's not in the air box exactly though, it's on the metal that on top of it, that the fuel dist plugs into. What color wire goes to the dist?I got 2 and if I change them it makes no difference

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

Also it starts and runs but you can't floor it or it chokes, cant rev past 5k. once you get to 5 k you can keep it there for about 5 seconds, and its slowly goes down no matter how much gas you give it. So this makes me to believe that this is the problem. Also I get some sort of ping clickety sound once and a while, sounds like an engine knock but I'm not sure.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

other than the coil and four spark wires , you have a hall effect transducer in the base of the distributor , which in all my schematics have three wires. from a 86 golf schematic : all three are 18 gauge bk/w , br/bk , g ( the green wire does have a white stripe after the connector ( the wiring to the electronic ignition module )

Reply to
samstone

Okay because now I have 2 wires at the coil a yellow and a green, and at the base of the dist I have 2 brownish wires one with what appears to be a red stripe going to the dist cap, but when I switch them up it has no effect what so ever. now when I try to start it I need to pump the gas pedal.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

test

Reply to
samstone

The picture i posted is very typical of all hall sensors. the plug with the terminals is what you should see/have at the base of your distribtor. Three wires going from that plug ( on the dist. ) to the electonic ignition module ( pins 3, 5 , 6 ). Out of pin 1 of the electronic ignition module a green/black wire goes to terminal

1 on your coil. The other yellow wire on your coil goes to your ignition switch.
Reply to
samstone

wheres the picture?

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

I hope you saw the picture by now , I never posted a picture to the news group before and it did not go as smoothly as I thought it would. Anyway the post by me at 10:28 AM with subject line : Re : EGR VALVE! hall.jpg

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Reply to
samstone

3, 5 , 6 ).

Well apparently my timing is off, the engine has a pully from a 2L and mine is the 1.8.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

If the car still starts and runs for 10 seconds I really don't a pully has anything to to with your problem.

Reply to
samstone

Well yes actually because the timing is completely off, you can't get the timing marks lined up with this pully.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

And it never runs smooth smooth smooth, always very rough.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

Actually No.

What does the rail fuel pressure do when your engines stops?

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Reply to
samstone

Reply to
none2u

because - the in tank pump is NOT suppling fuel to the main fuel pump. So the main pumps gets slugs of air. I'm guessing the problem is just a poor "hot" wire connection at the connector on top of the fuel tank ( under the back seat, under the round access cover ) . >> Prolly will fix the fuel gauge too.

Reply to
samstone

Timing of the crankshaft , cam , and intermediate shaft ( and thus the distributor ) is though the timing belt. The v-belt pulley may have the timing mark on it but really has nothing with the timing other than to give a place to check the timing. It doesn't matter to the engine timing what size the pulley is because " zero " on the crank will be "zero" on the pulley everytime around no matter what the size of the pulley.

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Reply to
samstone

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