checking valve clerance

That motor comes stock with a nice Hydraulic Roller cam. It is better to have a warmed up motor. I like this method, even though some will say it takes longer. Pull all the plugs out of the motor if you want to make it easier but not required. Turn the motor over by hand until the #1 Exhaust lifter just starts to rise up. Then set the lash on the #1 Intake. After that you turn the motor over until the #1 Intake valve goes all the way up, then almost all the way down, then set the #1 Exhaust. Repeat this for every other cylinder. Another way only requires turning the motor over twice. Put #1 on TDC Fire. Adjust the Intake Valves of cylinders 1-2-5-7, Exhaust of 1-3-4-8. Turn motor over one revolution to where it is #6's TDC Fire. Adjust the Intake Valves of cylinders 3-4-6-8, Exhaust of 2-5-6-7. Most Hydraulic Cams/Lifters want about a half of a turn of preload after Zero Lash. Zero Lash is when the pushrod has no pressure on it and can be spun with your finger easily. Alot of people run as much as a full turn of preload. It depends on the type of ramp on the lobes as to what runs and idles the best. Some motors want less lash some can idle ok with more. You can also set them while its running with oil deflectors, going by sound, and feel, but I have seen bent pushrods doing it this way. If it was a Solid Cam you would use a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and valve, going in either order as described above. Good Luck, nice motor btw.

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