Last weekend I took my wife and 3 month old baby about an hour's drive from home (by interstate) to meet friends at a restaurant. When we pull off the interstate I hear a vibration and hear a noise from the car, but think little of it. We stop at a stop light at the interstate off-ramp. When the light turns green I can tell the car isn't responding normally to a acceleration - there is hesitation and the vehicle is jerking.
The car is jerking and loosing power so quickly that I turn onto a side street to get off the main road. The car maintains a rough idle, so I get out and try to identify where what is going on. There is definitely a humming sound coming from near the muffler - possibly in the fuel tank. We're like 8 blocks from the restaurant, so I tell my wife I'm going to try and 'make it' so we can at least get some help from our friends. By the time we get to the restaurant, the car will idle, but totally bogs down and acts as if it will die if I give any pressure to the gas pedal.... we made it, but immediately call the Hyundai hotline to let them know we need assistance.
I didn't try to drive it home for fear we would get stuck on a hot night with my 3 month old - somewhere on the interstate.
It may part of the issue - so I'll mention that we were down to about an 1/8 tank of gas, but no 'low fuel' light yet.
Hyundai had it towed to the dealer (1 hour away from my home - gee thanks). 4 days later the Hyundai tech says there are no codes found in my cars computer and two people test drove it just fine! Yet my wife and I both can attest that there was a problem - and it surely didn't just magically fix itself.... or did it?
We're scared to try and drive it home, but the dealership says there's nothing wrong with it.
I guess we'll have to just see what happens.
Researching on-line I understand it could be bad gas, bad sensors, possibly air bubbles forming around the fuel pump after driving several miles non-stop (vibration creates gas air bubbles which may be sucked into the fuel pump causing the issues).
But there was definitely a hum coming from the "bleeping" gas tank... Any advise for convincing the dealer to replace the fuel pump - even if the computer didn't register a trouble code?
Thanks, ~ Cutlass
If your gas tank hums, you should enter your car on Americas Got Talent.
Could that hum be a vent or gas cap leaking? If it is not vented properly, it can restrict the flow of gas. It can also be temporary and neutralize once the car is turned off, thus the ability to run normally afterwards. Chances are, taking the cap off and putting it back on may have cured it; and stopped the humming.
I can't think of a single reason to replace the fuel pump. I'd replace the cap though, just in case. Could be other parts of the system but I'm not totally familiar with the canister etc. so lat the pro's chime in on that part.
Just my dos centavos;
Similarly something happened to me. Picked up a full tank of fuel in New Orleans at an Amoco, made it 10 miles down the road.
Pump (mechanical) and filter full of "stuff". The pump somehow got a piece of debris lodged in the suction side in the check valve.
Maybe your "sock" got plugged? Might be worth a check to see what kind of volume the pump's outputting...possible filter too?
This is what I was thinking too. A piece of dirt caught just right in the fuel pump could cause the hum you heard. I had a similar experience too in my F-150 a few years ago, although the sound was not a hum but more of a clicking. After I shut off the truck I guess the dirt made its way out of the pump and it never happened again.
It's normal to hear a humming from the fuel tank while the fuel pump is running, so your description doesn't necessarily point to a faulty fuel pump.
The vibration and lack of power you report sounds like a misfire. Whether caused by the fuel pump or some other cause, I'd expect one or more trouble codes if that were indeed the case.
Here's the difficulty: the problem with your car could be just about anywhere. Unless there's some sort of evidence of the nature of the problem, replacing a fuel pump or any other part isn't terribly likely to solve the issue. If the problem isn't present during testing and there are no diagnostic trouble codes, the technician has nothing more to go on than your description. In this case, there are so many possible causes for the problem you describe, picking one to try isn't likely to be fruitful.
If the catalytic converter took a hit and broke up inside it'll do what your stating. Had it happen after my wife missed the edge of a driveway and bounced down over the curb.When cool it would run ok....but after 30-45 min it'll come back.
On Jul 10, 10:22 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
-------------- I KNOW THE FEELIN' --------------
MINE WAS BATTERY TROUBLE ...
I HAVE A 2004 ELANTRA GLS, AND THE BATTERY IS almost impossible to replace and service!
Hyundai DOESN'T want you even try to:
1) Check the fluid level in the cells.
2) Check the body and terminals for corrosion.
3) Remove the old battery and install a new one.
These tasks are almost impossible for the average motorist BECAUSE THE BATTERY SITS IN AN ENCLOSED, SEALED CASE! You can't see much less inspect the cell fluid levels. And half of the bolts under the hood on the driver's side have to be removed to free-up the battery.
See, Hyundai wants you to go to a HYUNDAI DEALER, where a battery costs $90, plus up to $50 more to install it. And at most Hyundai dealers I know, you have to leave your car for an entire day -- then hope it's ready when you return in the late afternoon or early evening.
"Aw, we're sorry, but you see we got real busy and couldn't get to yours. But tomorrow!"
AdvanceAuto Parts, AutoZone, Olympic Auto Parts, and Batteries Plus sell the same battery for $52 to $69, some including free installation.
Only problem? They can't get a sufficient supply of them to keep 'em in stock!
And that's what your conniving, inscrutable Hyundai folks want -- to force you to spend more on a new battery than a normal car owner would expect. Parts companies list the Elantra batteries as "special." And that they are!
Additionally, the OWNER'S MANUAL has neither a diagram or instructions for accessing and servicing your Hyundai Elantra battery. Just a one- paragraph entry that says, in effect, Be careful when servicing the battery."
I've had my 2004 Elantra GLS for 3 years and the battery is already shot. Needless to say, with problems also with the air bags, brakes, power locks, and engine noise and vibration, I've bought my last Hyundai product!
My advice to Hyundai? Hold up on building those factories in the U.S. Too many one-time customers could make for sluggish, then anemic, sales.
While it IS true that you cannot access the battery cells to check the electrolyte level (something I don't like), there is NO problem accessing or replacing the battery. Replacements are readily available from a multitude of sources, including auto parts stores, Sears and Walmart. How much more available could they be?
FWIW, my car was purchased in April '04 and the original battery is still working fine after 65K+ miles.
You're very lucky. My battery in a 2000 Elantra died somewhere between 40,000 - 50,000 miles. That was just the tip of the iceberg.
Charles R. Whealton Charles Whealton @ pleasedontspam.com
Auto Batteries are not affected by mileage,it's years of service,ambient temperature,and vibration that matters.Deep discharging them hastens failure.Failing charging systems also hasten battery failure.(both over and undercharging.)
AFAIK,after about 4 years,auto lead acid batteries become a risk for failure.
Jim Yanik wrote:
Oddly enough, that's about the frequency at which I've replaced my batteries, regardless of the make and model of vehicle they were in.