Valve Guides--Stupid Question

"Dave Combs" wrote in news:ldeHd.71893$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.socal.rr.com:

No, but you can replace the valve stem seals w/o pulling the heads and they might be your problem. You can buy a fitting at the auto parts store that replaces a spark plug and allows you to connect an air compressor to it, the compressed air will hold the valve up while you remove the keeper, collar, spring and old seal.

I think that may be the problem (I hope). I've never run it very hard and have changed the oil regularly. I bearly passed CA emissions last year and I want to make sure I pass next year. Anyone hazard a guess what it would cost to replace the valve seals?

Thanks

Re: >"So here's how I did it. Remove all

------------------------------------------------- Wondering what the purpose of the rope is. I successfully changed the seals on my 351C by just putting each piston in turn at TDC and using one of those valve compression tools that you attach to the rocker fulcrum.There's not a lot of force involved.

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The rope holds the valve in place just like the compressed air. Its an old farmers trick. As for "just putting" the piston on TDC" I'm not sure that would be a good idea in all cases. It might be fine, but the first time someone doesn't get TDC right they will be really pissed when their valve goes down. Not to mention the rope is better for a valve to make contact with than the piston top. Less change of damage.

I have done the rope trick myself. I like it better than compressed air. Compressed air works for stock valve spring rates, but when you get up to

350 pounds open pressure with only 160 psi in the cylinder the valve just opens. If you have the spring compressor that pulls the spring up to the retainer it might not be a problem, but I always have a hard time getting the one I have to grab far enough down on the spring. I just use the old fashioned armstrong lever type that mounts on your rocker stud.

MadDAWG

Hey Bob, I never had any problems with doing it the 'air compressor way' with a variety of engines. You just need to have enough cfm to hold them closed. I've even tried to see how far down I could push the valve until they didn't spring back and guess what? They hit the side of the cylinder first. This is the case on most, but not all, engines. The main reason for using air or rope, for that matter, is to hold the valves in place and up so you can remove the keepers from the retainers without compressing the springs a whole hell of a lot. The good thing about air is you have more cushion if you want to just hit the retainer sharply with a deep socket and a hammer. If you get the technique down it only takes a second to remove the keepers as the pop right out.

Well, a lot of guys have told me that. And I'm sure it works. But my luck is never that good :) I take the safe way out and then I don't have to worry about it. I think you should use whatever technique works and you feel comfortable with. It's nice to have options.

The down side of the rope trick is that you don't have an excuse to buy a new tool.