I have a 1995 chevy 350 engine that WAS giving me about 17mpg. Suddenly, it drops to 10 mpg. I do the usual (plugs, wires, dist & cap, injector cleaner, o2 sensor, etc), with NO change. There is NO code stored in the ecm, no check engine lite. I gave up and took it to a GM dealer, who charged me $150 to hook it to the computer. I was told that the engine was running too cool, so it never goes into closed loop. They said change the thermostat, the coolant sensor, and possibly the ecm module (they wanted $900). I changed the thermostat (195 degree) and the coolant temp sensor, with no change at all. I even checked the wiring to the ecm module, thinking maybe I had a broken wire, but all checked well. I changed the ecm module. No change. I changed the Knock sensor, no change. How can I tell if the ecm is going into closed loop? I monitored the O2 sensor, which after a minute or so (coming up to temperature) shows about .85 to .9 volts at idle (which is quite rich). At driving speed, it jumps so much I cant tell. There must be some voltage measurement to tell me if the ecm goes into closed loop! Anyone have any ideas whats up with this monster? I am thinking about putting in a higher temp thermostat to see if it does anything, but am not sure that this is even in the ballpark of the problem. There is no smoke, doesnt burn oil, no coolant leakage, but the exhaust smells rich. Thanks
1995 350 ecm (?) problem
Apr 29, 2006
12 Replies
There are two coolant sensors, on for ECM and one for gauge, might sure you change the right one. The one you want is on side of engine mounted in head. You might check MAP sensor too.
----------------- The SnoMan
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If you read his earlier post the dealer said his engine was running cold suggesting a bad ECM temp sensor for engine temp. It can cause engine to go over rich and use more fuel as can a bad MAP snesor can soewhat too but the temp sensor would be my first choice. It is not likely the TP sensor (throttle postition) given his problem.
----------------- The SnoMan
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a scan tool will tell you if you are in closed or open loop. On my 92 the coolant temp sensor that feed the ECM is on the intake near the water neck (which i think you asked about in another post) the sensor that drives the gauge is on the cylinder head.
----------- Elbert snipped-for-privacy@me.com
Yes there are two. One for gauge and one for ECM. They one you want mounts in head and is called a engine coolant temp sensor or ECT. That is the one you need to change. "Should" be on drivers side of engine between #1 & 3 cylinder.
----------------- The SnoMan
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Is there a voltage or resistance test/standard for it? TIA. TomC
SnoMan wrote in article ...
There is one. at 40 degrees it should read about 7500 ohms, at 70 degrees F, it should read 3400 ohms, at 160 degrees, 450 ohm and at
210 degrees 185 ohms. The MAT sensor has the same values. On the TPS. it should read between .45 and 1.25 voltage at idle on the blue wire coming out of TPS and icrease smoothly with throttle. On MAP sensor, it should read between 3.6 and 5.2 volts with key on but engine not running on the light green wire coming from MAP sensor. I hope this helps----------------- The SnoMan
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I don't know how you can tell without the scan tool. Basically when the truck reaches operating temperature the ecm goes into closed loop.
----------- Elbert snipped-for-privacy@me.com
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You don't need any tools to check for closed loop, usually.
If the trans works properly.......... The lock-up convertor engages only during closed loop.
fact, not fiction.
Test :: Drive around for at least 5 minutes. Insure the engines warm and the tranny is warmed up.
At a steady 50mph LIGHTLY tap the brake pedal.
you should feel an rpm change in the engine as the convertor unlocks and locks back up.
~:~ Marsh ~no tools diagnostics~
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