Thanks Shep! I already checked that site out previously but perhaps I
missed something. It does make reference to the sensor being in the
distributor but I wanted someone who had actually replaced one to comment on
how the RE/RE actually panned out.
On 8/14/07 5:39 PM, in article 1187127456 firstname.lastname@example.org, "Shep"
1.. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft position sensor.
3.. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw.
4.. Remove the camshaft position sensor.
1.. Install the camshaft position sensor.
2.. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw, torque to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.) .
3.. Connect the electrical connector.
4.. Connect the negative battery cable.
Thanks for the info. I read that the sensor being out of whack won't cause
drivability problems as it's only intended to pinpoint a particular
misfiring cylinder... I was, however, curious if the CEL is on and a code
is registered, will this not force the ECM into limp mode anyway and hence
cause 'drivability' problems? I suppose 'efficiency and power' problems
would be more accurate. Is it possible for the CEL to be on with a code set
and not to put the ECM in limp mode? I didn't think it was but I wasn't
On 8/14/07 8:24 PM, in article SIrwi.4$ email@example.com, "JR"
So I guess there's really no reason to replace it other than wanting to
pinpoint a cylinder misfire?? Thanks Shep!
On 8/15/07 7:43 PM, in article 1187221300 firstname.lastname@example.org, "Shep"
If anyone is interested, this is dead easy and took me maybe 40min (it could
be done much faster but I had a brown pop in the sun also). The one point I
would caution is NOT to unscrew the distributor cap 'retaining arms' (dunno
what they're called but they allow the cap to screw down tight. I dropped
one of these into the abyss of the engine bay and it held the job back to
say the least. The other piece of advice is to slowly cycle the crank with
the ignition till the keyed area is inline with the sensor - otherwise you
can't remove it easily, at all or without snapping it to bits. As always,
if you're tearing out the rotor, reindexing, etc, it's always a good idea to
mark the position before removal (I just dragged a marker across it and it
worked well). I'm sure that this is all second nature to many of you but if
someone shared these thoughts with me, I would have had time for a second
beer during this job...
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