Brake Bleeding

May 04, 2004 11 Replies

Hey everyone,



I decided it was time to replace my rear drums on my 1988 Chevy Blazer S-10 4x4 4.3 V6. I picked up 2 drums, 2 shoes, dot3 fluid as well as 2 new wheel cylinders. I'll spare us all of the horror story of the employees at Autozone and skip to the heart of the question.



After replacing 2 wheel cylinders in the back, but also had to replace one of the brake lines from the right rear to the junction block above the rear axle. I blead the back two, got all the air out, and no leaks, and had plenty of fluid in the resevoir -- however I still have a low pedal and a "BRAKE" light in my dash.



It was raining so I had to stop -- my next idea is to blead the fronts, even though I didn't open those and that resevoir never went down. Is this the next logical thing -- err the first thing I should have (after the rears) since I opened up a line?



Thanks, Joe Webster


uh-oh............how long did you have the master cylinder cap off while it was raining ????

1-2 hours? is that bad?

hehe JUST KIDDING.

It was on 99.99% of the time, and when it was open it wasn't raining :)

dodged that one! Joe

well then, I'd say that either there is STILL some air in it, or you have a connection that is not quite tight enough, and is sucking a tiny bit of air in as you let off the pedal

I thought that too -- but wouldn't it spray some fluid when I pressed the pedal?

I wiped everything down good and looked as someone pressed away and nothing came out.

Thanks, Joe

Joe,

Poorly adjusted rears will trigger the brake light. You need to make sure the shoes are adjusted properly or the proportioning valve interprets the lack of pressure buildup as major brake problem (hence the brake light) instead of loosly adjusted rears.

With new drums, your best best is to adjust them until you can JUST slide the drums off and on (there should be slight resistance, you want them tight!). Be sure to center the shoe/spring assembley before tightening.

Doc

I've found that a lot of times, even this is not enough adjustment... you have to adjust them even a little tighter.

Agreed 100%. I was erring on the side of caution in my advice, didn't want to say "tighten the living piss outta them!" and then have him cook the rear brakes on his first trip.

Doc

Thanks guys. I know they wern't dragging as much as I would normally do, I'll give that a try. I'll post back.

Thanks! Joe

I seam to remember this problem... hehe.

I bet my paycheck this is it. I had this same problem w/ my brakes (on a REAL blazer though).

~TLGM/KJ

I have another question. Is it possible that I have an air bubble in the block that connects to both read lines (above the rear axle). If so, I think the only way that I could get it out would be to bleed ALOT of fluid rather quickly through the system. Is that correct?

Thanks, Joe

"Joe Webster" wrote

No, if you have an air bubble in that location, it will come out when you bleed either rear wheel. When you bleed rear brakes with a single line to the rear axle, you basically bleed the entire circuit through one wheel, and then you finish up the other circuit and bleed what remains in that branch.

Ian

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