Changing brake fluid without bleeding

Bleeding brakes often involves hassle with bleed nipples which won't budge and then break off. If I want to change brake fluid and avoid this hassle would the following procedure work:

-syringe a small quantity of fluid from M/C reservoir and replace it with an equal quantity of new fluid. Use a small enough volume (say 20-50 mls) so that the level does not go below the minimum and hence no air is introduced into the brake lines

-carefully mix old and new fluid in reservoir by gentle stirring.

-drive vehicle and apply brakes a few times to further aid mixing.

-repeat a few times

Doing it this way while not a perfect solution and not replacing *all* the old fluid will result in much of the old brake fluid being replaced by new fluid, Especially given that most cars braking systems only contain around

0.5 - 1.0 litres of fluid in total.

Has anyone got any comments on this?

brian

Reply to
brian doyle
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Unless you're working on an ancient Mini or something similar I'd just bleed them normally. Bleed nipples aren't that fragile and if you use a decent spanner and don't pull down on it when you're turning it you'll be ok. Give them a spray with penetrating oil an hour before if you're still nervous.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

It doesn't circulate so it will never get to the wheel cylinders. The wheel cylinders are where the heat will boil old brown/black water contaminated brake fluid rendering the brakes useless. So what you propose is pointless unless you are doing this to defraud a buyer that the car has been serviced.

Reply to
Peter Hill

brian doyle ( snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Apart from the fact that the bit that remains unchanged is the bit that's actually doing the work...

Reply to
Adrian

Not sure how this will work.

The important bit of the fluid is the stuff in the calipers/cylinders.

Just changing the fluid in the reservoir will just mean that the fluid in the reservoir is changed. Unless you drain the fluid from the pipes, it's not going to go anywhere.

Pete.

Reply to
Pete Smith

Yeah, just the one: BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

Peter

-- "The humble bic biro draws 13 beards, 9 devil moustaches and 49 penises on newspapers in its lifetime."

Reply to
AstraVanMan

You sure about that? I just tried what I proposed and replaced around 100 mls of fluid in the reservoir and gave it a good mix. This made the fluid in the reservoir notciably lighter. So then I drove the car and applied the brakes a few times and looked at the reservoir again and the fluid had definitely darkened again - not as dark as it had been originally but certainly darker implying that some old fluid from the lines had made its way into the reservoir.

brian

Reply to
brian doyle

It would help if you retracted the caliper pistons first - if the pads are worn they could contain as much fluid as the reservoir.

One of those kitchen spray thingies is handy for removing brake fluid from the reservoir - simply pump it into a suitable receptacle.

I think you'd be unlucky to break a bleed nipple. Has only happened to me once in many years of working on brakes - and that on a pretty old car. I'll usually use a socket to undo them taking care to keep it square.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

but you are missing the point the fluid that's in the calipers isn't going to magically travel back up to the reservoir to swap places with the fluid that's just been put in is it just flush the fluid through like you would normally until you see clean fluid coming out of the nipple this way you will use more than the recommended fluid capacity (because some of it is going to go to waste) but at least you know you'll have done it right

Reply to
dojj

Just do the job properly - this is just faffing around. If you're worried about bleed nipples buy some new ones before starting the job.

Reply to
DougP

Dave Plowman (News) ( snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Usually one that's not had the bleed nipples opened for years...

Reply to
Adrian

Totally and utterly pointless.

Don't mess about when it comes to brakes, take it to a garage.

Reply to
SimonJ

And you really think some semi-skilled fitter is going to take as much care as you'd do yourself with something this safety critical?

Dream on...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The message from "Mungo \"two sheds\" Toadfoot" contains these words:

Deep sockets with a T-bar are good for this.

Reply to
Guy King

The message from "brian doyle" contains these words:

It'd take years to mix even the first few feet of pipe.

Reply to
Guy King

The message from "SimonJ" contains these words:

In his case that sounds reasonable - but most of us are capable.

Reply to
Guy King

Sounds like more work that doing it properley! Make sure you use a close-fitting socket over the nipple (preferably a six-pointed one) and you should be fine.

Darren

Reply to
Darren Jarvis

Brian

There is NO return pipe to the master cylinder. Therefore it is impossible for the brake fluid to return from the callipers or pistons without some sort of pressurised assistance.

If you empty the master cylinder, and then retract the callipers and pistons, you will push fluid from these into the cylinder and this can then be removed allowing you to add a small quantity of new fluid. But there will still be a lot left in the pipes - along with all the bits of crud that accumulates over the years because of water contamination.

Just one question though - is it worth risking your life (or someone else's) just to save time and a few pounds? Do it properly.

Brian G

Reply to
Brian G

OK, take it to a decent garage.

Reply to
SimonJ

The message from Colin Stamp contains these words:

Does seem a lot easier. Of course - the bleed nipple is at the top of caliper - the sludgy water collects at the bottom.

Reply to
Guy King

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