Are there any portable (and legal) ways to evacuate R-12 air
conditioning systems without having to take it into a shop? Reason I ask
is I'm going to replace the radiator support frame on my '90 k1500 and
to do so I need to disconnect the two lines that run to the condensor.
I'd drive it the way it is but there is no front bumper, grill, or
headlights, and the nearest shop is a good 5 miles away through heavy
traffic. I could tow the sucker but that'll set me back the price of the
hood I need to buy.
Thanks for any info.
: Are there any portable (and legal) ways to evacuate R-12 air
: conditioning systems without having to take it into a shop? Reason I ask
: is I'm going to replace the radiator support frame on my '90 k1500 and
: to do so I need to disconnect the two lines that run to the condensor.
: I'd drive it the way it is but there is no front bumper, grill, or
: headlights, and the nearest shop is a good 5 miles away through heavy
: traffic. I could tow the sucker but that'll set me back the price of the
: hood I need to buy.
: Thanks for any info.
I agree, just one good volcano erupting every 100 years or so destroys more
ozone that all the CFC that have ever been manufactured have done. But the
tree huggers can't control the agenda of volcanoes, and nature doing
something isn't as newsworthy as man doing something is. Besides it is only
the rich countries that have the restrictions on R-12 and certain other
CFC's etc anyway.
To Bret thanks for the info... i'll probably go that route.
To Doc and J....
Theoretically speaking, if my R-12 (I probably have about a pound in it)
were to somehow find its way out of my system without using a vacuum
pump, how would that affect properly converting the system to R-134
later on? I wouldn't recharge with R-12 and would hope to convert once I
get the truck put back together.
Reason I ask, before I knew anything about R-12 I saw someone do the
same thing, just hit the air valve until it stopped hissing out R-12...
he then used one of the R-134 conversion kits and now he's complaining
his a/c doesn't work half as good as before. Wondering if it's because
he didn't properly evacuate it or maybe he screwed something up in the
The system needs to be evacuated (oil and air) prior to being filled. The
system needs to be under vacuum before the refrigerant is introduced so the
air that's in there at normal atmospheric pressure isn't taking up the space
of the refrigerant.
So, regardless if you blow the gas out in yer' garage or take it to a shop,
she needs to be evacuated prior to refill. I'd also suggest switching the
accumulator out to one that's designed for R-134a. The difference isn't how
the gas was removed, it's whether the system was under vacuum when you
Your buddy's system now stinks for several reasons: system was open for too
long to the atmosphere and the accumulator is all plugged up (contains a
potent dessicant, can't be exposed to atmospheric air for more than a few
minutes before the performance decreases), system not placed under vacuum
prior to refill.
Doc is absolutely right, after you put it back together put a new
accumulator on a put a vacuum pump on it for at least 45 min. the shut your
gauge valves (if you have gauges) and shut the pump down and watch it for 30
to 45 min. to see if you lose your vacuum, that will tell if your system is
tight(no leaks) then add your oil charge and R134A, oh also I would replace
the orifice tube also, the variable ones are pretty high but well worth it
because the 134 will cool better when driving in the city.
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