Dunno about the methodology, but my '98 Suburban (130k miles) is holding up well
rust-wise. Had a couple of cracks in the paint, applied some rust converter,
and they seem stable.
Everything-else-wise, it's pitiful... but I have no complaints about the rust
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 15:58:10 +0000 (UTC), Ignoramus30966
I have a 2000 K3500 with only 38K miles. It is used as a plow truck
and sees moderate salt for a few months every winter. Body has held up
well and still looks like new BUT I had a engine oil cooler line rust
thru and leak and when I when to replace it is was rusted into raditor
fitting and nearly had to replace raditor too. Trany cooler lines are
not far behind. They seem to have used really poor quality metal on
them and they are rusting badly. GM could have spent a few more buck
and used SS lines for these important functions. As a comparison, I
have a 89 4x4 burb that I bought new and the original engine oil and
tranny cooler lines are still is great shape. I am not happy with the
way the 200 is dealing with rust in those areas and the 79 J20 it
replaced several years ago held up a lot better in those areas too.
After reading this... Is there any company that makes quality trucks
that just keep on working the way they are intended and rated for?
I definitely appreciate all the negative info on Chevys, as I was (and
am) considering getting one.
Thanks to you and previous posters.
Other people seem to love the things. Maybe its something to do with mine
having been made in Mexico.... -)
00000: Hood spacers rusting badly & sloppy seat install
05000: STRANDED Rear brake froze
07000: Steering noise
13000: Bad tire
20000: Trans shifting problem
27000: Front rotors warped
29000: Burning Oil
30000: Violent shifts 1st-2nd
34690: STRANDED Alternator
35940: Xmission Valve Body...
36240: Serpentine belt replacement
37000 "Clunking" noise when starting from full or near stop
39000: Steering became hard momentarily
39800: Rear clunk starting to return in rear (re/37000)
61060: New sus parts
67120: Trans shift prob (like 30000/35940)
68260: Pads+turn rotors+
75040: STANDED Crank sensor failed
75350: "Check engine..." lite
75837: Valve Body (trans) required rebuild
77100: Water pump
77439: Intake manifold gasket
85000: (approx) Wiper board
89000: Wiper board
98000: (approx) Serpentine Belt - preemptive replacement
98340: Alternator Failed
120000: Trip Speedo Failed
On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 02:55:53 +0000 (UTC), Ignoramus30966
My 89 4x4 burb has been pretty trouble free. I have only had to
replace the TBI to intake gasket a few years ago, the water pump about
5 years ago and the rear bearing on altenator about 7 years ago. It
has about 180K on it now and runs great and I use it shuttle my kidsto
on from college now at about 160 miles per round trip and it 100%
dependable still. It has made more than a dozen cross country trips
and never required repair on those trips (most recent in 2003) and it
has never left me stranded either.
I think there's an element of luck. I've heard soooo many people just *love*
their GM k1500's that my experience must be some sort of anomaly.
OTOH, the transmission valve body thing seems tb a widely-known/oft-experienced
design defect that GM has to have known about for years and years - yet they
never took the trouble to fix it. Makes me suspect that accountants are
running the company....
Little doubt about that as they surely look how to make it last
through warranty and then make money fixing it. I have 180K on a 700R4
in a 89 4x4 burb that I have not had 2 cents of trouble with. I do
change fluid and filter every 20K to 25K or so and it has a aux tranny
cooler too with stock type tires. It gets great MPG for it size as we
only use it for trips now mostly and it is still pretty cherr. It is
the most reliable vehcal of it type I have ever owned as it has never
left me stranded in 17 years of owning it and it has seen temps for 50
below to 108 above and never failed to do its task. Let me tell you
that driving a car at 40 to 50 below is a trip too because axle lube
never realy heats up enough to flow freely even when using SYN in
them. Feels like you are dragging a anchor and MPG really takes a dive
too but you do not really care as long as you are warm and running. I
used to use double block heaters below minus 20 or so not because it
needed it to start but because I could get heat out of it a lot sooner
and it would start like spring time at minus 40 or 50 with dual
heaters. Below about 30 below you can zip cover completely closed
over radiator grill and it does not even think about getting above
normal operating temp too. those covers help you warmup up quicker and
stay warm to in extreme cold. Once we made a 1000 mile trip and it
never was above minus 15 at the warmest while driving the whole trip
and got as cold as minus 35! That vehical has probaly logged 25 to 30
K miles traveling in below zero weather in its life It can sit for
weeks without even starting (and it does because we only use it for
trips now) and I can get in it and drive it 500 or 1000 miles without
a second thought. (it has a 400 miles trip coming this weekend and it
did 220 miles yesterday). The point of all this is that vehical has
been through a LOT more than the average vehical and it still runs
great. TBI while not state of the art nor most powerfull has proven to
be a extremely reliable system for me when it counted the most. (still
has original fuel pump too) The do not build them that way any more
as cost cutting and profit margins have taking their toll. I have
newer vehicals but that burb will retire when I do. I sure got my
moneys worth out of that thing even though it stickered for 26K
because it basically had every possible option including dual heaters
and a 40 gallon fuel tank for incredable range between fill ups! 600
miles is not hard to do and I think 700 or more would be quite
possible if I ran it dry. on the trip planned this weekend I will top
it off before I start out and not refuel until after trip a few days
later when gas is cheaper during middle of week. If you are in the
market for a used burb and can find a 89 to 91 in cherry shape, those
were the best of the breed from what I have seen.
2003 Chevy s10..rust on the back side of front and back bumpers.
Tailgate rusting on the on the back side seam, all bolts, nuts, underside.
The tailgate cables were corroded, and replaced. Brake drums and drive
all rust. 51,000 miles
I've got 340,000 miles on my S10. They are notorious for rusting but it
took it 14 years to start to rust. It just started to show signs this last
I have 178K on my Montana. Not a spec of rust. 278K on a 93 Bonneville. Not
My dad has owned 4 Silverado's since 88. The 88 rusted in the back but the
90's and newer never did at all. None of them had issues of any kind. He
drives them to Canada and back 4 times a year pulling a boat. Never pulled
over for any reason.
I know there are some bad ones out there but none of the GM's I've ever
owned have been bad.
PS I never had one that got less then 200K before having to fix anything
major. Normal wear and tear stuff yes, but nothing on the drive train.
Not too many that won't rust if you live in areas where they spray the
roads. Whatever that shit is it eats metal real quick. Going back before
they started using that stuff we used to replace a brake lines once in a
while and I don't remember replacing fuel lines. In the last few years since
they started spraying the roads before the storms we have been replacing
fuel lines, brake lines, emerg. cables all the time. Along with the
underside of the vehicles is all rust flakes and scales...
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