Even normal oiling can. Stick with dry type stock filter because there
is no magic P in those things unless you believe in snake oil too.
They also do filter less too.
I've heard recently that 'oil coated' Air filters.......
transfer oil to the engine's Mass Air Flow Sensor and mess up
the Air Flow sensor readings..... Kinda like bad
information set to the Engine CPU....... Garbage in,
Garbage out.... Might have to buy a new Mass Air Flow Sensor??
I once ran something quite similar on a Harley Davidson. Can't give
them a glowing report. On a carb engine the lack of/over oiling can
run havoc with your fuel / air mixture. With a computer controlled
engine this will not be the case but the oil DOES migrate down the
intake tract and the evidence is there to see.
My take - This is just a gimmick, pure and simple and can't possibly
filter as effectively as a god paper filter. I will never use
anything like a K&N again ever.
I have one on my Toyota Corolla and am looking at getting one for my
Suburban as soon as they go on sale again. I have had them on several
vehicles and have always had noticably greater power as soon as I installed
one. On one vehicle it eliminated or greatly delayed a downshift on a hill
going to work. Before the K & N it would always downshift (with cruise set
at 55) about half-way up the hill. After the K & N it would either not
downshift at all or not downshift until almost all the way up the hill. I
always got noticably better gas mileage out of it also. My son has one on
his Saturn. Never had any problems!
The K&N filter can create a problem. The oil can slip thur the filter
and get on the mass airflow sensor, and then down into the engine. The
dirty mass airflow sensor can cause incorrect readings and cause the
computer to lean or rich up the fuel. I can't tell a bit of difference
in power or gas millieage with the K&N or a paper filter. I would
stick with the stock paper filter and keep it change every 12,000 Miles
or when ever it gets dirty, they are a heck of alot cheaper then K&N.
Had one on '98 Chev. 5.7 and ran it till i sold it with about 112,000 miles
on it and never had any trouble with any sensors. Ran this almost right from
new b/c the replacement paper at the time was half of the k&n. Currently run
one on my 99 Yukon 5.7.
I have one on my S10. I noticed better performance. Not a lot but some.
The mileage increased a tad bit. I've had it for 218,000 miles. Currently
I'd get another one if I got another vehicle.
I had a friend that was raving about the increased mileage and power of K&N
filters so I did a non scientific test with an old Dodge Diplomat that I
converted to 4 barrel ele. ignition. On a street that is about 1 mile from
my house, there are yardage markers on the side of the road from 0 all the
way to a mile and they are used for taxi's to check there meters in the cars
against. Well this is a perfect place to test how well the tuning of the
carb was going and my recurving of the distributor till it was perfect. I
could run the 1/4 in 14.65 seconds (which is quick for an old gutless
Diplomat) and highway mileage was 20.1mpg with cruise on at 60mph.
So what I did was try his new K&N air filter on my car and guess what in the
1/4 mile I ran 14.6 seconds for the best of 5 tries so I gained nothing
basically. I then ran the car out to do a mileage test and low and behold I
got 20.3 mpg.
So yes they do work but I would have to drive a whole lot just to pay for
the difference this filter made.
An episode of horsepower tv also did a dyno of before and after on a 70
Chevelle and the before dyno was 410hp and after 412 hp. 2 hp was all that
was gained and for that big of motor no diffence would be felt. Now if we
are talking about something with a 50hp engine then 2 hp would be big, but
most of the K&N stuff in my opinion is hype and in the old diplomat it was
Nice thought out comment. And on top of all this it has been proven
that they fiter air less in process. Also when you with a carb which
has no real active mixture control, a minute change in airfilter
restriction will effect A/F ratio how ever slight while a F/I engine
will keep it more constant. (this could explain your .2 MPG increase)
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