Need Opinion: 98 Suburban LT

I have a older still 89 4x4 burb that I have had since new and a 98 is a better burb than the new Silveradoones if you ask me. It is one of the last of the "classics". THe newer ones are more car than what the burb originally was. I also have a 2000 K3500 old style classic P/U, the last of its breed. I do not care for the newer truck or SUV with plastic bumbers.

I have a 1998 Suburban LT K2500 with the 7.4L (454) L29 motor in it. It is a great vehicle to own. One of the things that I like about it is that it is so easy to work on. I have big hands with telephone poles for fingers and it is extremely difficult sometimes to work on some of my other vehicles (yes I confess my sin I also own a Chrysler LHS and a VW New Beetle), but not the Suburban. The inside of the engine compartment is roomy and things are layed out well. My Suburban runs extremely well. The body is in excellent shape with no rust whatsoever. The paint job that GM did was excellent. My Suburban sits outside all the time and the paint and interior are as good as the day it came out of the factory. This doesn't mean that you won't have things break occasionally, because they will. I will tell you that the truck is built solid. The only thing that I would consider somewhat major that I have done to it, was to replace an intake manifold gasket. Even that was a snap job to do because the engine is easy to work on and get to. . I can't forsee ever getting rid of this truck. The way I see it, a few short years and the value of these trucks will be increasing instead of decreasing. $8950 is not to much to pay for an LT. Also remember that you are buying it from a dealer who wants to make a little money, keep that in mind.

If you do buy it, I hope that you also try to locate a set of the 1998 K truck factory service manuals. This is a four volume set from GM that has thousands of pages. These service manuals are exremely well written with exploded diagrams, pictures, and displays that are easy to understand. There wiring diagrams are the best (in my opinion).

There will always be parts for these vehicles for many years to come. There is an abundance of aftermarket parts available and IMIO it will be a time proven collector vehicle into the future.

Steve

No need to hunt...

(ok - you'll probably have to glue that link back together! Or drill through and find it again.)

also, how are trannies? doi they go at a certain mile? for example, if you had a diesel benz from 81-85 the transmission would go at 225k miles. if you got past that with no problems you would be ok.

at what mile doe sthe intake manifold problem manifest itself? how about the engine and tranny too?

thanks alot you guys are really helpful!

I bought mine last Jan with 130k miles.

Previous owner: Intake manifold gasket and heater hose coupling replaced. Disc brake rotors every 40lk (I think they rode the brakes).

Me: Heater bypass valve replaced, Removed dexcool, put in green coolant Removed passenger side door closed switch (dome light on all the time, bad switch) Removed and reinstalled glove box light switch and locking latch so the light would turn off. Barn doors power lock motor replaced Fuel pump replaced Transmission at 135k miles (it had fluid replaced every 60k miles) Slip yoke had to be greased at 136k miles (Chevrolet made me pay for this, but I am still working on it. Anyone know how to get an address for a zone rep?) Front seat is broken at the front of the seat's frame.

I like the truck, and it is the LT model with everything. But, I think the bucket seats are probably the most uncomfortable seats I've ever owned. I constantly feel like I am being pushed forward, and, on long road trips, I manage to slide down in the seat and have to "scoot up". I hate leather anyway. The arm rests are useless. Because of the leather, the seat heaters are an absolute must, though I am embarrassed every time I use them.

Jeff

I agree with every positive comment about these older Suburbans. I owned a 99 for a while but eventually fell victim to a new Tahoe. One thing I would get the dealer to do is replace all the fluids. Sometimes, when folks are getting rid of their cars they let all of that slip. Radiator, power steering, brake, tranny fluid may or may not be original fluids. Just a good rule of thumb on a used car purchase. Drive it over 65 too. Dealers usually don't drive a car more than a block at 25 just to see that the car will go and shift. Get a Carfax report too. Most dealers will do them for nothing, they have an account with Carfax. TPBeach

Per Wally:

Mine has the 4L60E transmission. Until I had it fixed properly (i.e. off-warranty...) the valve body had to be replaced at about 30k intervals.]

"Properly" means putting a sleeve in a certain cylinder so that it doesn't wear out.

when to the car dealers website and saw the truck listed for $500 LESS than the autoshopper. woo hoo. they will honor it.

my dad went and looked at it and gave it his seal of approval provided they replace the oil cooler lines. he is a Chevy mechanic so he knows his trucks,,,

anyway, 8000 for this truck is a very good deal. 89k miles, LT 1500 model with the 350 engine. leather interior, great shape... I test drove it today and it was fantastic...and it was raining and everything so it wasn't the best conditions for a test drive but maybe the most telling conditions...

I mean if I like it in crappy weather, ill like it in nice weather...

thanks for all your help guys...I hope to be active on this board...