I would start by pulling the air cleaner housing off and looking
very hard for something shorted out from water, something that's come
loose, jammed up, etc... I believe you probably managed to disconnect
or short something that's causing the computer to totally spazz out.
You washed the air filter?
On or off the truck ;)
You cant do that, well er.. I guess you did.
Sounds like the water has worked its way in to the ignition system. Does this
Vortec have a Cap and
rotor? If so, dry it out. Also inspect the wires.
If you got water into the intake you might have caused hydro lock when you
started it. That can
cause a cracked head, block, and other problems.
I did not get anything wet other than the air cleaner and that was damp not
soaked. Nothing near the distributor or spark plug wires is wet. I
recently replaced the wires and plugs. I did remove the number one plug and
looked at it to see that it still has the proper gap (platinum plugs)...the
plug is dry and covered with black soot. I am planning on removing the
plugs tomorrow (I would have done it sooner but my back went out on me six
days ago......like the engine problem isn't enough) and check out the
compression on each cylinder. One thing that is really puzzling me is the
fact that it starts up so easy.
Thanks for your input
This may seem obvious and you probably already considered it. You
spent a lot of money already and surely went over everything that you
touched. My question is just how wet did you get this air cleaner when
you washed it? If that paper was wet when you started it up there just
could have been enough water pulled into a cylinder to bend a rod or
two. It really takes very little and water could have been hanging in
the pleats ready to get sucked in.
Experience shows that you can drive into a puddle and stall an engine
due to water. Dry everything out completely and replace the filter and
you are OK. Try to start the engine with that wet filter and the
engine can be toast. That is essentially what you say you did.
Do your own compression test and you will know the answer.
I went through much hell with my S10 waste spark system until
i realized the plug wires could make it run that bad.
(I had MCM too on a code scan) Worse when it
was damp or wet. I would put new set of FACTORY wires on it
and change the plugs. Inspect the plugs while you at it for signs
of deposits (shows which are misfiring). Look closely for any vacuum hose that
might have come disconnected or accidentally cut.
Maybe you will get lucky?
My Name wrote:
As I have said to others, nothing is wet. The engine has never been washed.
The friendly dealer says that I need a new engine. I could be wrong but it
seems to me that after installing a new engine I am going to have the same
problem. As far as I know new engines don't come with CSFI fuel injector
systems or throttle bodys.
Thanks for your input
One thing i did on my s10 was to put my timing light on each plug wire
to check for output. On the defective ones, it would not flash as bright
or was intermittently flashing. A cheap a quick test for dead or intermittent
firing. Not fool proof, but it found my bad ones. Could be a bad coil
pack too. I take it you coolant sensors checked ok on the scans?
A stuck coolant sensor could tell the computer the engine was ice cold
and rich up the mixture. Or maybe a intermittent connection on the
sensor? You might find out where it is and check the connection for
corrosion. Would not be that expensive to change out. Note: this sensor
may NOT be the one the controls the temp gauge on the dash.
No I did not wash the air filter while it was in the truck. I shook it out
to be as dry as possable. I have removed everything down to the throttle
plate and everything is bone dry. The only thing that I can think of that
could get wet is the MAF sensor that did go bad but I have replaced it. It
is such a misfire that I too think something is causing it to fire at the
wrong time like you have called it a "computer totally spazzed out". What
can I do to get it to fire correctly again?
Thanks for your reply
Any time a vehicle develops a (new) symptom after a 'repair' the first
thing to suspect is the repair itself. It rains on cars and MAF sensors
get wet all the time and the vehicle still runs OK. I would look very
hard at vacuum lines knocked loose, disconnected wiring, etc. Keep in
mind that the person who did the repair is going to have the hardest
time finding such a fault as it was overlooked the first time.
Wouldn't that be better stated as 'The blinking MIL is an indication
that the ECM has detected a rich condition severe enough to cause
damage to the converter'?.. I'm not sure if the rich condition has to
be caused by a misfire, or if something like a stuck injector or
extremely high fuel pressure could also trigger a blinking MIL...
We've had vehicles in that had a misfire, but didn't cause the MIL to
I did something like that on my motorcycle... I over oiled the K&N air
filter, instant plug fouling and it barely idled, giving it gas would
make the engine bog real bad. I removed and re cleaned/oiled the filter
and it still ran crappy. My spark plugs were blackened and fouled to the
point that even with a clean filter it wouldn't run. Replaced the fouled
plugs and fixed it right up. Have you replaced the spark plugs?
Follow up to all that have helped and anyone else interested...........After
checking the compression I found that on the left head the compressions were
60lb., 140, 90, and 120. On the right all cylinders were 185lb. I have a
new long block ordered and have the engine removed. The only thing that I
am still worried about is what caused this to happen in the first place? I
am very suspecious that the damage was caused by water getting onto the MAF
sensor, shorting it out, and changing the settings in the ECM, that in turn
caused the engine to run way out of time.
My father in law routinely pours water into the carb of his 366 chevy, while
running, to decarbonize the combustion chambers. Old school mechanics have
been doing this for many many years. There are other commercially available
products that are designed to be used the same way. I think it is highly
unlikely that he hydrolocked his engine with a damp air filter.
I think that when he started the engine, the differential air pressure
across the soaking-wet paper filter (that was NEVER intended to get wet
in the first place) caused a substantial slug of water to be ingested
into the engine at a very low RPM. Perfect conditions for hydraulic
lock. Just guessing, I'd say that a typical pleated paper air filter,
saturated, might hold close to cup of water (remember there is a LOT of
paper in there and its very porous to start with). If just HALF of that
was suddenly sucked into the engine on start-up, the potential for
disaster is huge.
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